Chamdo (Qamdo)

A Khampa hub on the Sichuan–Tibet Highway where the Dza Chu and Ngom Chu merge to form the Mekong (Lancang), surrounded by ancient monasteries such as Jampaling, Karma Gön and the Chagyelma Hall, plus the Karuo archaeological site.

Chamdo (Qamdo) lies in eastern Tibet. It is the main city of the Kham Tibetan region and a transport hub where the Sichuan–Tibet highways G317 and G318 meet the Yunnan–Tibet Highway G214. The urban district of Karuo is built at the confluence of the Dza Chu and Ngom Chu rivers, which join here to become the Lancang (Mekong). The city sits at about 3,200 m — a little lower than Lhasa, but altitude sickness is still a concern. May–Oct has the most pleasant weather, though landslides are possible in the Jul–Aug rainy season; winters are cold but sunny, with few visitors. The city's sights are compact and walkable: Jampaling Monastery stands on a terrace between the two rivers and is one of the largest Gelug monasteries in Kham; below it are Tea Horse Square, the Chamdo Museum and the former office of the Chamdo People's Liberation Committee. The Karuo site, about 12 km south of the city, is one of Tibet's most important Neolithic sites. Day trips head in three directions: north along the Dza Chu to Karma Gön in Karma Township (the mother monastery of the Karma Kagyu school); northwest to the Chagyelma Hall in Riwoqê; and southeast to the Rinda cliff carvings in Zhagyab. About 100 km to the south lie the Pamda (Bangda) grasslands and Qamdo Bamda Airport, on the way to Baxoi and Rawok. Qamdo Bamda Airport has flights to Chengdu, Chongqing, Lhasa and elsewhere; it is about 130 km from the city, a 2–3 hour drive. You can also self-drive or hire a car with driver along the Sichuan–Tibet Highway from Chengdu or Lhasa. Plan on 2–3 nights in the city: one day for the city and the Karuo site, and another day or two for one of the monastery routes. Bring your ID card for entering Tibet; photography is usually prohibited inside monasteries, and kora (pilgrim circuits) should be walked clockwise.

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