Canaan Valley & Blackwater Falls
Based in the outdoorsy West Virginia highland town of Davis, surrounded by Blackwater Falls, Canaan Valley skiing, Dolly Sods Wilderness and Seneca Rocks.
Canaan Valley–Blackwater Falls lies in Tucker County in northeastern West Virginia, at about 1,000 m on the Allegheny Plateau. The small town of Davis serves as the base, with the old coal town of Thomas just to the north. Canaan Valley is the highest large valley east of the Rocky Mountains, with cool summers (July average around 20°C) and snowy winters, and it's known as West Virginia's outdoor capital. The area breaks down into four parts: ① Blackwater Falls State Park, right next to Davis, with the amber-colored Blackwater Falls, the Lindy Point canyon overlook and Elakala Falls; ② Canaan Valley, with its resort state park, Timberline Mountain ski area and national wildlife refuge wetlands; ③ Dolly Sods Wilderness and Bear Rocks to the east, with highland wilds, rock formations and blueberry thickets, at their most spectacular in fall color season; ④ about 45 minutes south, Seneca Rocks (a climbing mecca), Spruce Knob, the state's highest point, and Seneca Caverns. Best seasons: Jun–Aug for hiking and escaping the heat; late September to mid-October for fall foliage, the busiest time of year; Dec–Mar for skiing, snowshoeing and sledding. Getting there: you'll need a car; it's about 3.5 hours from Washington, D.C., and 2.5 hours from Pittsburgh, and the nearest major airports are Washington Dulles and Pittsburgh. Plan on 2–3 days: one for Blackwater Falls and Thomas, one for Dolly Sods, and one for Seneca Rocks and Spruce Knob. Note: the forest roads to Dolly Sods and Spruce Knob are mostly gravel and close in winter; mountain weather is changeable and cell service is weak, so download offline maps before heading into the backcountry. Dolly Sods was once an artillery training range and unexploded ordnance is occasionally found, so don't pick up any suspicious metal objects.
Top sights
- Blackwater Falls – An amber waterfall about 18 metres high, where the river is stained tea-brown by tannins from hemlock and spruce. It is one of West Virgini…
- Lindy Point Overlook – A rocky overlook on the southern rim of Blackwater Canyon, looking down on a V-shaped gorge about 300 metres deep. It is a favourite spot f…
- Dolly Sods Wilderness – A high, cold plateau on the Allegheny Plateau, with stone fields, meadows, blueberry thickets and wind-sculpted spruce. Reminiscent of nort…
- Seneca Rocks – A knife-edge sandstone peak rising about 270 metres above the North Fork valley. It is the East's most famous climbing site, and a hiking t…
- Elakala Falls – A multi-tiered waterfall beside the Blackwater Falls State Park lodge, reached in about 5 minutes on foot, with moss-covered rock walls and…
- Canaan Valley Resort State Park – A state resort park at the southern end of the valley, with a ski area, golf, a lodge, and trails, where white-tailed deer often graze the…
- Timberline Mountain – A ski area on the east side of Canaan Valley with one of the longest runs in West Virginia, open to mountain biking and chairlift rides in…
- Canaan Valley National Wildlife Refuge – The largest high-elevation wetland east of the Rocky Mountains, with boardwalks through peat bogs and meadows that are good for birdwatchin…
- Bear Rocks Preserve – A field of white quartzite boulders at the northern end of Dolly Sods, overlooking the Allegheny ridges and valleys, and a popular spot for…
- Spruce Knob – The highest point in West Virginia at 1,482 meters, with a stone observation tower overlooking layered ridges, and a well-known stargazing…
- Seneca Caverns – The highest-elevation commercial cave in West Virginia, with a guided tour of about 1 hour, featuring the stalactite "Corn Crib" hall and I…
- Smoke Hole Caverns – A cave in the South Branch Potomac River gorge, famous for one of the world's longest stalactite bands and a trout pool inside the cave.
- Douglas Falls – A waterfall with orange rock walls on the North Fork below Thomas, where iron from an old coal mine turns the river a vivid orange-red that…
- Thomas, West Virginia – A hillside former coal-mining town with a historic red-brick main street lined with galleries, antique shops, and the Purple Fiddle bar, fa…
- Davis, West Virginia – The highest incorporated town in West Virginia, with outdoor gear shops, craft breweries, and restaurants, serving as a base for visiting B…
- Cathedral State Park – The last large stand of old-growth hemlock in West Virginia, with century-old trees rising like cathedral domes, and gentle trails that can…
- Olson Fire Tower – An old fire lookout tower on a mountaintop west of the Blackwater Canyon, where climbing the roughly 30-meter steel frame gives a 360-degre…
Where to eat
- Siriannis Pizza Cafe – Decades-old Italian pizzeria in Davis, where sweet tomato sauce pizza and pasta pizza are favorites among locals.
- The Purple Fiddle – Café, bar and mountain market in Thomas, with live Appalachian folk music most evenings; the house-made salsa and ice c…
- Canaan Valley BBQ – Hand-crafted smokehouse in the valley, known for smoked chicken wings, beef brisket and pork ribs, with a full bar and…
- Milo's Café Restaurant – Restaurant and craft cocktail bar on the ground floor of the Bright Morning Inn in Davis, serving poke bowls at dinner…