Calakmul (Xpujil)
Calakmul, capital of the Maya "Snake Kingdom," hidden in a rainforest reserve: climb its pyramid for views over the jungle canopy and explore the nearby Río Bec–style ruins.
Calakmul lies in southeastern Campeche, Mexico, right by the Guatemalan border, and is the most remote and unspoiled travel region in the southern Yucatán Peninsula. Its centerpiece is the ruined city of Calakmul, capital of the Classic-period Maya "Snake Kingdom," together with the surrounding Calakmul Biosphere Reserve; in 2014 the site was inscribed as a mixed natural and cultural World Heritage Site, "Ancient Maya City and Protected Tropical Forests of Calakmul." The base for travelers is Xpujil, a small town on Highway 186 with simple hotels, eco-lodges and restaurants; gas stations and ATMs are limited, so bring enough cash. Within 7–25 km of town are the Río Bec–style sites of Becán, Chicanná, Xpujil, Hormiguero and Río Bec. About 60 km to the west is the entrance to the Calakmul forest road, and the ruins are another 60 km or so in; along the way are the Balamkú ruins, a museum and a viewpoint where bats stream out of a cave at dusk. The climate is hot and humid: the Nov–Apr dry season is best, while the May–Oct rainy season is muggy and full of mosquitoes, and some dirt roads become hard to drive. Most visitors self-drive, but you can also hire a car with driver or join a local tour from Xpujil. It's about 2 hours from Bacalar and 5 hours from Campeche City, with long-distance buses. Stay 2–3 days: one day for Calakmul and the bat cave, one for the nearby ruins. In the rainforest, protect yourself from mosquitoes and sun, and carry plenty of water.
Top sights
- Calakmul Archaeological Zone – The capital of the 'Kingdom of the Snake' in the Classic Maya period. Climb Structure II, about 45 m high, and you will see an endless expa…
- Calakmul Biosphere Reserve – One of Mexico's largest tropical forest reserves, home to jaguars, howler monkeys, toucans and ocellated turkeys.
- Volcán de los Murciélagos – At dusk, millions of bats spiral out of a limestone sinkhole. The spectacle lasts nearly an hour and is breathtaking.
- Becán – A Maya city enclosed by a ring of defensive ditches. Its Río Bec-style towers and palaces can be climbed, and it is only 7 kilometers from…
- Xpuhil Archaeological Site – A Maya site you can walk to from the town, where Structure I’s three towers stand side by side as the finest example of Río Bec style.
- Chicanná – The “House of the Snake’s Mouth” site, where the entire doorway of Structure II is carved as the enormous mouth of a mythical beast. It is…
- Balamkú – The “Temple of the Jaguar” site, where a colored stucco frieze about 17 meters long survives inside a building, depicting toads, crocodiles…
- Hormiguero – A Río Bec site in the forest south of Xpujil, where the enormous monster-mouth doorway of Structure II is strikingly impressive.
- Río Bec – The site that gave the Río Bec architectural style its name. Its Group B buildings, with their tall false temple towers, are well preserved…
- Calakmul Museum of Nature and Archaeology – A small museum beside the Calakmul access road, introducing the reserve’s ecology, Maya history, and archaeological findings from the site.
Where to eat
- Sazón Veracruzano – The most-reviewed restaurant in Xpujil, with a wide range of Mexican home-style dishes and generous portions. A standar…
- Génesis Restaurant – An affordable roadside café in Xpujil serving snacks, burgers and tacos. A good place to buy food to take to the Calakm…
Itineraries
- Grand Yucatán Peninsula Loop – A complete road trip starting and ending in Cancún, looping through three states from white cities and fortified towns…