Gulf of Orosei & Cala Gonone

A seaside village on Sardinia's east coast and the departure point for boat trips to stunning coves beneath white limestone cliffs—Sardinia's most famous stretch of coastline.

The Gulf of Orosei lies in the middle of Sardinia's east coast, in the province of Nuoro, stretching from the town of Orosei in the north south to the coast of Baunei. Along some 40 km of shoreline, limestone cliffs plunge straight into the sea, hiding a string of white-pebble coves reachable only by boat or on foot. It is Sardinia's most spectacular coastline and part of the Gennargentu National Park. Cala Gonone is the base for exploring the gulf: daily scheduled ferries and guided boat tours leave from its harbour, and you can also rent a small boat (no licence required) to explore on your own. The classic boat route takes in the Grotta del Bue Marino, Cala Luna, Cala Sisine, Cala Biriola and Cala Mariolu, with a view of the limestone pinnacle at Cala Goloritzé from the water. Cala Goloritzé can only be reached on foot, hiking down from the Golgo plateau, and booking is required in high season. Inland lies the heartland of Sardinian shepherd culture: Gorropu Gorge, one of the deepest canyons in Europe; the Nuragic village of Tiscali, hidden inside a collapsed sinkhole; the Su Gologone spring; the Ispinigoli Cave; and the mountain village of Orgosolo, its walls covered in political murals. Be sure to try roast suckling pig and Cannonau red wine. The best time to visit is June–September, when boat services run in full and the sea is warmest, though August is the busiest and most expensive month; May and October are mild and good for hiking, with somewhat fewer boats. In winter the boats stop running and the coves can only be reached on foot. Getting there: the nearest airport is Olbia (about 100 km, a 1.5-hour drive), or it's about 3 hours by car from Cagliari. Public transport is scarce, so renting a car is strongly recommended. Plan to stay 3–4 days: 1–2 days on boat trips, 1 day hiking to Cala Goloritzé or Gorropu Gorge, and 1 day for inland archaeological sites and mountain villages. Note: most coves have no shade or facilities, so bring your own water, food and sun protection; the hiking trails are steep and hot, so set off early in the morning.

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