Cajamarca

A colonial city in the Andean highlands where the Inca emperor Atahualpa was captured; the Ransom Room, the Inca Baths and the ancient Cumbemayo aqueduct bear witness to its history.

Cajamarca lies in the Andes of northern Peru at about 2,750 m and is the capital of the Cajamarca region. It was also a turning point in South American history: in 1532, Pizarro ambushed and captured the Inca emperor Atahualpa in the city's main square, setting the Inca Empire on the path to collapse. Today the old town preserves Baroque churches carved from volcanic stone and colonial streets of whitewashed walls and red-tiled roofs, while the surrounding valley is dotted with pre-Inca aqueducts, cliffside tombs and hot springs.

Climate: the highlands are mild year-round, around 20°C by day and cooling to 5–8°C in the mornings and evenings. May–Sep is the dry season, with plenty of sunshine and the best conditions for out-of-town sites like Cumbemayo; Dec–Apr is the rainy season, with frequent afternoon showers. The Cajamarca Carnival in February is one of Peru's liveliest, with water fights, colored powder and parades lasting several days; book accommodation well ahead.

Areas to explore: the old town centers on the Plaza de Armas, and the Ransom Room, the cathedral, the Church of San Francisco, the Belén complex and Santa Apolonia Hill can all be linked on foot, with a combined ticket covering three sites. Outside town, the eastern route takes in the Inca Baths, the Ventanillas de Otuzco and the countryside of Llacanora; the southwestern route covers Layzón and the Cumbemayo aqueduct; and to the north is the Porcón cooperative farm. Travel agencies in town run affordable half-day tours every day.

Getting there: there are daily direct flights from Lima to Cajamarca (about 1.5 hours), and the airport is about 4 km from the center; you can also take an overnight bus from Trujillo (about 6–7 hours). Taxis in town are cheap; for sites outside town, join a tour or hire a car.

Recommended stay: 2–3 days. Tips: watch for altitude sickness when you first arrive — take it slow and drink plenty of water; the UV is strong. The region is famous for its cheese and dairy products, and roast guinea pig Cajamarca-style is worth trying.

Top sights

• Ransom Room (El Cuarto del Rescate) – The stone room where Inca emperor Atahualpa, after being captured in 1532, promised to fill it with gold and silver. It is the only survivi…
• Baños del Inca – Natural hot springs where Atahualpa stayed before his capture. The spring water reaches about 70°C, and you can soak in private bathing poo…
• Cumbe Mayo – A pre-Inca stone-cut water channel at 3,500 meters, stretching for several kilometers. Nearby are strange rock formations known as the 'Sto…
• Ventanillas de Otuzco – Hundreds of square tombs carved into a volcanic rock face that look like windows. They are burial sites of the Cajamarca culture.
• Plaza de Armas of Cajamarca – The site where Pizarro ambushed and captured the Inca emperor Atahualpa in 1532. The square is surrounded by the cathedral and the Church o…
• Cajamarca Cathedral (Santa Catalina) – A facade of volcanic stone carved in ornate Andean Baroque style. The bell tower was never finished, because of colonial-era taxes on compl…
• Church and Convent of San Francisco – A Baroque church on the east side of Plaza de Armas, with a religious art museum and underground crypts (paid entry).
• Belén Monumental Complex – A colonial-era complex of church and men's and women's hospitals, now home to an archaeology and medical history museum, included in the Cu…
• Cerro Santa Apolonia – A small hill southwest of the old town. Climbing the stone steps rewards you with views over the city's red-tiled rooftops, and the summit…
• Granja Porcón – A cooperative farm run by evangelical Christians on the Andean highlands, with pine forests, llamas and a small zoo. Simple rural accommoda…
• Layzón – A pre-Inca ceremonial site on the way to Combayo, where a stepped pyramid-like platform overlooks the Cajamarca basin.
• Ventanillas de Combayo – A larger and more primitive cluster of cliff tombs than Otuzco, with the scenic Sangal Canyon along the route. Suited to in-depth explorati…
• Llacanora – A small hillside village southeast of the city, with rock art and a small waterfall. Often combined with nearby dairy pastures for a half-d…
• Kuntur Wasi – A pre-Inca Formative-period temple site where a gold crown was unearthed. An on-site museum displays the excavated artifacts.

Where to eat

• Restaurant Salas – A family restaurant founded in 1947 on Plaza de Armas, famous for fried guinea pig and cheese humita.
• El Zarco – An affordable, long-running canteen beside the square, open from breakfast to dinner, where locals often order humita a…
• Cascanuez Café – A popular café and dessert shop near the square, with all pastries and breads made in-house and a simple all-day menu.

Itineraries

• Northern Peru Ancient Civilizations & Kuélap – A northern loop from coastal adobe cities to cloud forest fortresses, then over the mountains to Cajamarca