Cabo Polonio

A dune-ringed hippie fishing village with no roads or power grid, reached by truck across the dunes, with sea lions basking below the lighthouse and the wild beaches and surf towns of the Rocha coast nearby.

Cabo Polonio lies on the Atlantic coast of Rocha Department in eastern Uruguay, about 260 km from Montevideo — a small fishing village hidden among the dunes of a national park. There are no roads or mains electricity, so visitors switch to off-road trucks at the Puerta del Polonio on Route 10 to cross the dunes into the village. The highlights are the lighthouse, the sea lion colony on the rocks below it, the north and south beaches, and a pristine, light-pollution-free night sky you can only experience by staying the night. The Rocha coast strings together small towns of very different character: to the north, Barra de Valizas can be reached on foot across the big dunes and back; Punta del Diablo is the hub for surfing and nightlife; the Fortaleza de Santa Teresa and its national park lie farther north; and to the southwest are La Pedrera and La Paloma. Getting there: COT, Rutas del Sol and other long-distance bus companies run from Montevideo to the Puerta del Polonio in about 4–5 hours; drivers must leave their cars in the parking lot at the entrance. Dec–Mar is the summer high season, when accommodation is scarce and pricey; southern right whales can be seen Sep–Nov; winter is quiet and windy, and many businesses close. Spend 1–2 nights in the village, plus 1–2 days exploring the nearby towns. There is no ATM in the village, so bring cash, a headlamp and a power bank, and use fresh water sparingly.

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