Cabo de la Vela (La Guajira)

A Wayuu fishing village where the Caribbean meets the desert, with sunsets from Pilón de Azúcar, hammock lodgings and 4x4 trips to Punta Gallinas, the northernmost point of South America, and the Taroa dunes.

Cabo de la Vela lies on the La Guajira Peninsula in Colombia's far northeast, a Wayuu fishing village on the Caribbean surrounded by desert, cacti and red rock cliffs. It is part of a self-governing Wayuu indigenous territory, and villagers run hammock guesthouses and 4x4 services; visitors come to experience indigenous culture, watch sunsets over the sea and kitesurf. The main sights are clustered west of the village: Pilón de Azúcar, the lighthouse and Ojo de Agua beach, all easily seen in half a day. Farther north are Punta Gallinas, the northernmost point of mainland South America, the Taroa dunes and Bahía Hondita, which require a two-day, one-night 4x4 tour. Getting there: fly to Riohacha, drive to Uribia, then switch to a 4x4 to cross the desert; the whole trip takes about 4 hours, and the easiest option is to book a tour from Riohacha or Santa Marta. It is hot and dry year-round; Dec–Apr brings strong trade winds, ideal for kitesurfing, while Sep–Nov sees occasional rain, and 4x4 tours may be cancelled when the dirt roads turn to mud. Plan on 2–3 days. Note: fresh water and electricity are limited in the village and cards are almost never accepted, so bring plenty of cash, drinking water, sunscreen and insect repellent; along the way, children often stretch ropes across the road to collect a "toll", so it helps to have small snacks to hand out; ask permission before photographing Wayuu people.

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