Busan

South Korea's second-largest city and its biggest port: Haeundae Beach, Gamcheon Culture Village and Jagalchi Fish Market. Slower and saltier than Seoul, and the top extension outside Jeju.

Busan Metropolitan City sits on the southeastern tip of the Korean Peninsula, on the country's southernmost coast. It is South Korea's second-largest city and largest port, with a population of about 3.3 million, spread along a winding coastline with mountains behind and the sea in front. Unlike Seoul's urban feel, Busan is slower, saltier and full of street-level energy; it also hosts the Busan International Film Festival (every October). Sightseeing falls into three main areas: the east coast's Haeundae (beach, Blueline Park Sky Capsule, Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, Shinsegae, the world's largest department store, in Centum City) and Gwangalli (beach, night views of Gwangan Bridge and weekend drone shows); the old western districts of Nampo-dong (Jagalchi Fish Market, Gukje Market, BIFF Square street-food alley, Busan Tower and Yongdusan Park) and the hillside Gamcheon Culture Village, plus Yeongdo's Taejongdae and Huinnyeoul Culture Village; and, additionally, the pork soup rice (dwaeji-gukbap) street in central Seomyeon and Beomeosa Temple in the north. The east and west areas are about 40 minutes apart by subway, and each needs a day. Best seasons: early April for cherry blossoms (Namcheon-dong, Oncheoncheon, Dalseong Park) and around the October film festival, when the weather is most pleasant and the seaside is quieter under blue autumn skies; July–August is peak season for the beaches at Haeundae and Gwangalli, crowded and humid, with the Busan Sea Festival in August; winter is mild (0–10°C) and is the season for raw fish and oysters, though Haeundae is hugely crowded for sunrise on January 1. Getting there: Gimhae International Airport has direct flights from Shanghai, Beijing, Qingdao, Hong Kong and other cities; light rail plus subway to Seomyeon takes about 50 minutes, and the airport bus to Haeundae about 1 hour. From Seoul, the KTX to Busan Station takes about 2 hours 40 minutes. Four subway lines cover the main sights (use a T-money card); taxis are cheap and handy between seaside sights; the Busan City Tour Bus (Red Line for Haeundae, Blue Line for Taejongdae) suits a day trip. Suggested length: 2–3 days, and you can add a day trip to Gyeongju (about 30 minutes by KTX to Singyeongju Station or 1 hour by bus). Tips: at Jagalchi and Haeundae markets, agree on the price and preparation fee before buying seafood. Pork soup rice, beef tartare (yukhoe), fish cake and grilled shellfish are must-eats. Gamcheon Culture Village is a residential area, so keep your voice down and do not enter private homes. The seaside is windy and winter temperatures swing widely. Restaurants in Haeundae and Gwangalli have queues on weekends.

Top sights

Where to eat

Itineraries