Trading Domes (Toqi)
Toqi Zargaron / Toqi Telpakfurushon / Toqi Sarrafon
Three brick-domed markets built at a street crossing in the 16th century. They once sold jewelry, hats, and currency exchange, and today are a hub for carpets, embroidery, and ironwork crafts.
During the Shaybanid dynasty in the 16th century, Bukhara built several domed covered markets (toqi, meaning “arch”) at the crossroads of the old town's main street. They gave caravans shade and a place to trade in the desert sun. Three survive along the walking route from Lyabi-Hauz to the Kalyan Minaret, arranged in order. The southernmost is Toqi Sarrafon (1534), once a money changers' market. Next to it is the 16th-century Sarrafon Bathhouse, which is still operating. In the middle is Toqi Telpakfurushon, which sold fur hats and books. The northernmost, closest to Kalyan, is Toqi Zargaron (1570), the largest of the three, originally a jewelers' market. Today dozens of craft shops operate under the domes. They sell Bukhara carpets and suzani embroidery (hand-embroidered wall hangings, about USD 30–100 for small pieces and several hundred dollars for large ones), zardozi (gold-thread embroidery) robes and hats, carved wooden Quran stands, miniature paintings, and copperware. They also sell Bukhara scissors, the stork-shaped ironwork scissors that are a local specialty, which cost about USD 10–30. You can watch blacksmiths make them on the spot. Along the alleys between the markets are the Abdullah Khan and Ulugbek madrasas. The Ulugbek Madrasa, founded in 1417, is one of the oldest in Central Asia and has a calligraphy exhibit inside. There is also the Magoki Attori Mosque (12th century), Bukhara's oldest mosque. It was built on the site of a Zoroastrian temple and now houses a carpet museum. Admission is free, and shops are typically open from 09:00 to 19:00. Plan on an hour to wander, and compare prices before buying. Ask for a receipt and export certificate for carpets. Bargaining room is about 20–30%.
Opening hours
About 09:00–19:00
Nearby sights
- Ulugh Beg & Abdulaziz Khan Madrasas
- Po-i-Kalyan: Kalyan Minaret & Mosque
- Magoki-Attari Mosque
- Zindan Prison
- Lyabi-Hauz
- Ark of Bukhara
- Faizulla Khodjaev House Museum
- Bolo Haouz Mosque