Buffalo National River
America's first national river, a clear, undammed waterway through the Ozarks whose bluffs, waterfalls and Hawksbill Crag make it a canoeing and hiking hotspot.
Buffalo National River flows through the Ozark Mountains of northwestern Arkansas. In 1972 it became the first "national river" in the United States, with the National Park Service protecting about 217 km of undammed river. The water is crystal clear, lined by limestone and sandstone bluffs over 100 m high, and its side canyons hide waterfalls, caves and natural bridges, making it one of the most popular canoeing and hiking destinations in the central U.S. Seasons: March–May brings plenty of rain, making the upper river floatable and the waterfalls their most impressive; June–September the upper river is often too low to float, so head to the middle and lower sections, where you can also swim; the forests turn color from late October to early November; winter is quiet and good for hiking to see frozen waterfalls and elk. The river has three districts: the upper district, centered on Ponca, is the highlight, home to Lost Valley, Hemmed-In Hollow Falls, the Big Bluff Goat Trail, the elk of Boxley Valley, and nearby Hawksbill Crag and Glory Hole Falls in the Ozark National Forest; the middle district, centered on the Tyler Bend Visitor Center, has gentle water ideal for family floats; the lower district has Buffalo Point campground and the Rush mining ghost town, and supports multi-day float trips. Getting there: the nearest airports are Northwest Arkansas National Airport (Bentonville, about 2 hours' drive) or Springfield and Branson in Missouri; there is no public transportation in the park, so you'll need a car, and many roads are steep gravel. Lodging options include cabins and campgrounds in Ponca, Jasper and Harrison; reserve campsites in advance. Outfitters in Ponca and elsewhere rent boats and run shuttles; check water levels before you go. Cell service is poor in the mountains, so download offline maps. Plan on 2–4 days.
Top sights
- Hawksbill Crag (Whitaker Point) – A hawk's-beak-shaped rock platform jutting out over the canyon, with the endless Ozark forest below. It is Arkansas's most iconic view.
- Lost Valley Trail – The most popular short trail on the Buffalo River. It follows a creek valley past a natural stone bridge and ends at Eden Falls and a cave…
- Hemmed-In Hollow Falls – A waterfall about 64 metres high that plunges from the top of a semicircular cliff. It is said to be the highest waterfall between the Rock…
- Ponca to Kyles Landing Float – The classic canoe section of the Buffalo River, passing Big Bluff, Rock Bluff and the mouth of the Hemmed-In Hollow. You can see the best o…
- Boxley Valley Elk Viewing – A pastoral valley at the upper reaches of the Buffalo River, preserving 19th-century farmhouses and a mill, where herds of wild elk graze i…
- Big Bluff Goat Trail – A narrow rock ledge along the midsection of the roughly 170-meter Big Bluff, with the Buffalo River winding far below, thrilling and specta…
- Steel Creek & Roark Bluff – A grassy campground faces the towering Roark Bluff, with shallow shoals for wading, the most photogenic gravel bar and campsite on the uppe…
- Glory Hole Falls – Water pours straight down through a round hole in the roof of a rock shelter, forming a rare “through-the-roof” waterfall and one of the mo…
- Alum Cove Natural Bridge – A natural sandstone arch about 40 meters long in the Ozark National Forest, with an easy short loop trail, making it a relaxing detour.
- Arkansas Grand Canyon Overlook (Scenic 7 Byway) – A high overlook beside Scenic Highway 7, looking down over the layered Ozark valleys and known as the “Arkansas Grand Canyon.”
- Tyler Bend – The main visitor center on the middle Buffalo River, with gravel beaches suited to swimming and family floats, and nearby pioneer log cabin…
- Buffalo Point & Indian Rockhouse – The largest campground and riverside area downstream, with the Indian Rock House Trail leading to a huge rock shelter, passing sinkholes an…
- Rush Historic District – A valley town that boomed during the late-19th-century zinc rush, now reduced to stone storefronts, smelter ruins and mine shafts quietly h…
- Jasper, Arkansas – A county seat surrounded by mountains, serving as a lodging and supply stop for the upper-river sights, with a century-old café and outdoor…
Where to eat
- Ozark Cafe – Old diner on the Jasper town square, opened in 1909 and inducted into the Arkansas Culinary Hall of Fame.
- Jasper Pizza Company – Made-to-order pizzeria on the Jasper town square with house-made dough and sauce, a good refuel after floating.
- Cliff House Inn Restaurant – Scenic restaurant overlooking the 'Grand Canyon of Arkansas', home of Company's Comin' Pie, the state pie.