Bozhou

Hometown of Cao Cao and Hua Tuo, famed for the exquisite brick and wood carvings of the Huaxi Tower, Cao Cao's underground troop tunnels, China's largest traditional Chinese medicine market and sites linked to Laozi.

Bozhou lies in northwestern Anhui on the Huaibei Plain near the Henan border, with the Guo River running through the city. A National Famous Historical and Cultural City, it was once the capital of King Tang of Shang and is the hometown of Cao Cao and Hua Tuo, earning it the title "China's Medicine Capital". The main sights are concentrated in Qiaocheng District: the Beiguan Historic and Cultural District has the Huaxi Tower, the Nanjing Lane money exchange, the Jiangning Guild Hall and blocks of Ming–Qing old streets; beneath the old town lie Cao Cao's troop tunnels; the south of the city has Cao Cao Park, the Cao Clan Tombs, the Bozhou Museum and Xuege Pagoda; and Huazu'an (Hua Tuo's memorial temple), the Daode Zhonggong temple and the Mausoleum of King Tang are dotted around town. The TCM trading center is liveliest in the early morning, and Gujing Town, 20 km northwest, has the Gujing Liquor Culture Expo Park. For a Laozi heritage route, head east to Tianjing Palace in Guoyang or west to Taiqing Palace and Laojun Terrace in Luyi, Henan. The best seasons are April–May, when peonies bloom in sea-like fields ("Bo peonies", mostly in the rural towns outside the city), and September–October for autumn outings; summer is hot, while winter is perfect for beef flatbread and Bozhou dry noodles. Getting there: Bozhou South has direct high-speed trains to Hefei, Zhengzhou and Shangqiu; sights in the city are close together, so taxis or cycling work well. Allow 2 days, or 3 if you add the Laozi route. Major heritage sites are open roughly 08:00–17:30; combined ticket prices change frequently, so check official sources.

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