Bonaire
The world's shore-diving capital, where the island's entire coastline is a marine park: self-drive to yellow-stone-marked dive sites, see flamingos at the pink salt pans and visit uninhabited Klein Bonaire.
Bonaire lies in the southern Caribbean about 80 km north of Venezuela and, together with Aruba and Curaçao, forms the "ABC Islands". Since 2010 it has been a special municipality of the Netherlands (the Caribbean Netherlands); the US dollar is the currency, and Dutch, Papiamento and English are all widely spoken. The island is long and narrow, about 38 km long and 5–11 km wide, with a population of around 24,000. The capital, Kralendijk, sits midway along the west coast, so you can stay in one place and drive to every corner of the island. Bonaire is best known for diving: the waters around the island have been protected as a national marine park since 1979, and more than 80 shore-diving sites marked with yellow stones line the coastal road on the west side. Just rent a car, load up your tanks and jump in whenever you like; dive magazines have ranked it the Caribbean's top shore-diving destination for years. Snorkellers should head first to Klein Bonaire and 1000 Steps. The island divides into three areas: the north, with Washington Slagbaai National Park, the flamingos of Gotomeer and the old town of Rincon, is hilly and covered with cacti; the centre is Kralendijk with its restaurants, bars and harbour; the flat south links the pink salt pans, white salt mountains, slave huts, flamingo sanctuary and Willemstoren Lighthouse into a self-drive loop, while Lac Bay on the east coast is a windsurfing and kitesurfing hotspot. The climate is dry and hot, 25–32°C year-round, and the island lies outside the hurricane belt, so any time is a good time to visit; Jan–Apr is the most comfortable, cooled by the trade winds, and Oct–Dec brings occasional showers. There are direct flights from Amsterdam, seasonal direct flights from several North American cities, and connections via Curaçao. Plan on 4–7 days; divers often stay a week or more. Note: divers and snorkellers must pay the marine park Nature Fee (about US$40 per year for divers, about US$25 for other water activities); don't leave valuables in your car, and when shore diving it's often recommended to leave the windows open to avoid break-ins. Touching the coral is strictly prohibited, and reef-safe sunscreen is recommended.
Top sights
- Bonaire National Marine Park – Everything within the island's waters down to 60 m is protected, with more than 80 shore dive sites marked by yellow stones. It is widely c…
- Klein Bonaire – An uninhabited little island across from Kralendijk, with a nameless beach of white sand and clear water. The reef around the island is a t…
- Washington Slagbaai National Park – A national park covering about a fifth of the island's north, with cactus wilderness, flamingos at the salt lake and the Slagbaai bay. It w…
- Lac Bay – A shallow lagoon ringed by mangroves on the east coast. Sorobon Beach is a world-famous windsurfing spot.
- Salt Pans & Slave Huts – Low stone huts on the southern coast were where salt-pan laborers lived in the 19th century. Nearby are pink salt ponds and white salt moun…
- Pekelmeer Flamingo Sanctuary – One of the largest breeding grounds for American flamingos in the Western Hemisphere, where you can watch large flocks from the roadside on…
- Salt Pier – A working salt-loading pier with underwater pilings covered in sponges and coral. It is one of Bonaire's most photogenic dive sites.
- 1000 Steps – Descend limestone steps to a small bay, with steep reef walls and frequent sea turtles. It is Bonaire's most popular shore dive.
- Kralendijk Waterfront – The seafront promenade of Bonaire's capital, with colorful Dutch colonial buildings, restaurants and bars, and sunsets over the harbor.
- Fort Oranje – A small 18th-century Dutch fort on the Kralendijk seafront, with a white lighthouse and old cannons overlooking the harbor.
- Willemstoren Lighthouse – Built in 1837, Bonaire's oldest lighthouse stands on the southern headland, with waves crashing ashore, wild donkeys, and piles of coral st…
- Hilma Hooker Wreck – A 70-meter cargo ship that sank in 1984 after being seized for smuggling. Lying on its side in 18 to 30 meters of sand, it is Bonaire's top…
- Donkey Sanctuary Bonaire – A charity sanctuary caring for hundreds of stray wild donkeys. You can drive slowly through the grounds and feed them, making it a good fam…
- Goto Meer – A saltwater lake in the north where flamingos feed year-round, with Seru Brandaris behind it. The viewpoints offer excellent views.
- Rincon – Bonaire's oldest village, founded by the Spanish in the 16th century, with colorful cottages, a church, and traditional festivals.
- Mangazina di Rei – A cultural park on the outskirts of Rincon, converted from a 19th-century royal warehouse, showcasing rural life on Bonaire.
- Seru Largu – A hilltop viewpoint north of Kralendijk overlooking the capital, the west coast, and Klein Bonaire. Good for watching the sunset.
- Te Amo Beach – A small beach beside the airport, good for watching planes land and for snorkeling. Food trucks appear on weekends, making it a favorite of…
- Mangrove Info & Kayak Center – A mangrove education center on the north shore of Lac Bay, where guided kayak and snorkel tours take you through quiet mangrove waterways.
- Butterfly Garden Bonaire – A butterfly garden along the road to Lac Bay, where netted enclosures let you see many tropical butterflies and their metamorphosis up clos…
- Cadushy Distillery – A small distillery in Rincon that uses local cactus to make a cactus liqueur rarely found anywhere else in the world. Tastings are availabl…
- Mount Brandaris – Bonaire's highest peak at 241 meters, climbed inside the national park, with views over the north of the island and the Caribbean Sea.
Where to eat
- Posada Para Mira – A family-run restaurant on a hillside in Rincon, overlooking the town and mountains, famous for its goat stew and iguan…
- It Rains Fishes – A seafood restaurant housed in a century-old building on the Kralendijk waterfront, specializing in the daily catch of…
- Maiky Snack – A local weekend eatery hidden at the end of a dirt road, where goat stew is the signature and can sell out if you arriv…
- Kite City Food Truck – A seafood food truck parked at Te Amo Beach opposite the airport, famous for its fresh local fish wraps and burgers.
- Cuba Compagnie – A Cuban-themed restaurant and bar on the main street of Kralendijk, highly popular for its Latin Night on Thursdays.
Itineraries
- ABC Islands Island-Hopping Itinerary: Aruba, Curaçao & Bonaire – Connect the ABC islands from west to east via short flights, balancing white-sand beaches, a Dutch-style old town, and…