Boa Vista (Cape Verde)

A desert island where Saharan dunes run down to the sea, with the long beach at Santa Mónica and the Santa Maria shipwreck, and loggerhead turtle nesting tours in summer and autumn.

Boa Vista is the closest of the Cape Verde islands to the African mainland and the third largest. It is low-lying and known as the "desert island": Saharan sand blown across the ocean by the trade winds has built the Viana Desert and large dunes, and the coastline is ringed by tens of kilometers of nearly empty white-sand beaches. The climate is hot, dry and rainless all year, with temperatures mostly 24–30°C; from Nov to Jun the strong northeast trade winds make it peak season for kitesurfing and windsurfing, with occasional Saharan dust (harmattan) days; Mar–May you can go out to see humpback whales; and Jul–Oct is loggerhead turtle nesting season, as well as the hottest time, with occasional showers. Areas: Sal Rei, the capital in the northwest, is the base for lodging, dining and boat trips, with Estoril Beach and the islet of Ilhéu de Sal Rei nearby; Chaves Beach on the west coast has the big all-inclusive resorts, and farther south are Rocha Estância, Povoação Velha and the Valandinha rock arch; the north has the Viana Desert, the Santa Maria shipwreck and the Ponta do Sol lighthouse; and Santa Mónica Beach and Curral Velho on the south coast, along with Ervatão turtle beach and the Morro Negro lighthouse in the east, are wilder. Getting around: Aristides Pereira International Airport has European charter and direct flights, plus flights to Sal and Praia; outside Sal Rei and around the resorts most roads are sand tracks, so join a 4WD or quad-bike tour or rent a 4WD. We suggest 4–7 days, mostly for relaxing. Notes: waves and rip currents are strong and many beaches have no lifeguards; turtle watching must be done with a licensed group; the desert and beaches have no shade, so use sun protection and bring water.

Top sights

• Viana Desert, Boa Vista – A stretch of dunes built from Saharan sand on Boa Vista, where 4x4s and quad bikes cross the sand sea and it feels like being in North Afri…
• Cabo Santa Maria Shipwreck – A Spanish cargo ship that ran aground on the north-coast beach in 1968. Its rust-stained hull is the island's most photogenic landmark.
• Praia de Chaves – A white-sand beach several kilometres long on the west coast, backed by tall dunes and the chimney of an old brick kiln. Several large reso…
• Praia de Santa Mónica – A pristine white-sand beach about 18 km long on the south coast, with empty azure waters. It is often ranked among the world's most beautif…
• Sal Rei – The capital of Boa Vista, with low, brightly painted houses around a central square, and the base for accommodation, dining and boat trips.
• Praia de Estoril – A long sandy beach south of Sal Rei with calm waters, popular for kitesurfing, stand-up paddleboarding and sunset strolls.
• Ilhéu de Sal Rei & Fort Duque de Bragança – An uninhabited islet opposite Sal Rei with the ruins of a 19th-century fort, reached by small boat for snorkeling and picnics.
• Farol da Ponta do Sol – A lighthouse at the island's northernmost tip, surrounded by a barren coast of lava rock and sand, overlooking the crashing Atlantic waves.
• Rabil & Olaria de Rabil – The island's former capital, with traditional pottery workshops where you can watch hand-throwing and buy clay souvenirs.
• Morro de Areia Nature Reserve – A coastal dune reserve south of Chaves Beach, where giant dunes spill down from the hillsides to the sea.
• Rocha Estância – A solitary rock outcrop in the island's southwest, where the summit offers views of the coast and dunes from Chaves to Varandinha.
• Povoação Velha – The island's oldest village, with a small white chapel and quiet lanes, on the way to Varandinha and Santa Mónica beaches.
• Praia de Varandinha – A secluded beach at the island's southwest tip, surrounded by sea-carved rock arches and caves, with the Varandinha Lighthouse nearby.
• Curral Velho – An abandoned village on the south coast, half-buried by desert sand, with a turtle-nesting beach and an offshore islet. Desolate, with a st…
• Monte Estância – Boa Vista's highest peak, at about 387 meters, with a summit view of the island's desert and coastline.
• Praia de Ervatão (Turtle Nesting) – The core loggerhead sea turtle nesting beach on the southeast coast, where in summer and autumn you can watch turtles come ashore at night…
• Farol do Morro Negro – A lighthouse on a black rocky headland at the island's easternmost tip, overlooking the Atlantic and marking the eastern end of the 4x4 isl…
• Porto Ferreira Beach – A remote white-sand bay on the east coast, framed by dunes and clear water, and a common stop for picnic lunches on island tours.

Where to eat

• Morabeza Beach Bar & Restaurant – A popular beach bar on Estoril Beach in Sal Rei, serving grilled fish and lobster with sunset views. It's the most-revi…
• Casa Rosa Restaurant – A boutique restaurant in the center of town, run by a German couple. Its grilled octopus and seafood platter are especi…
• Naida Restaurant – An old family restaurant beside the central square, serving affordable fresh fish and Creole home cooking with a strong…
• Blu Mery Restaurant – An open-air restaurant run jointly by an Italian and a Cape Verdean, known for seafood pasta, tuna tartare and lime-cur…

Itineraries

• Sal & Boa Vista Beach Holiday, Cape Verde – Explore two sandy islands: see lemon sharks and salt pans on Sal, and discover deserts, shipwrecks, and untouched beach…