Big Bend National Park
At the Rio Grande's great bend on the US–Mexico border, the Chisos Mountains, Santa Elena Canyon and the Chihuahuan Desert share the frame beneath some of the darkest skies in the US.
Big Bend National Park lies in southwest Texas and takes its name from the huge bend the Rio Grande makes along the US–Mexico border. Covering about 3,200 km², it spans three major landscapes—the Chihuahuan Desert, the Chisos Mountains and the Rio Grande—and is one of the least visited and wildest national parks in the US, as well as a certified Gold-tier International Dark Sky Park. The park divides into three areas: the Chisos Mountains in the center (Chisos Basin, Window Trail, Lost Mine Trail and Emory Peak), which stay relatively cool even in summer; the west, where Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive heads south past overlooks and volcanic landscapes to Santa Elena Canyon, extending to the ghost town of Terlingua and the River Road through Big Bend Ranch State Park; and the east, with Rio Grande Village, the hot springs and Boquillas Canyon, where visitors with a passport can take a boat across to a small Mexican village. The best time to visit is November–April; March spring break is crowded, so book campsites and lodging in advance. From May to September the lowlands often exceed 40°C and are suitable only for early-morning activities. Access is very difficult: the nearest major airports are in El Paso (about a 5-hour drive) and Midland (about 4 hours), a car is essential, and gas stations in the park are few, so fill up before entering. Admission is $30 per vehicle, valid for 7 days. Cell service in the park is very weak, so download offline maps in advance. Plan on 3–4 days.
Top sights
- Santa Elena Canyon – The Rio Grande cuts through limestone cliffs about 450 m high, with the United States on the left bank and Mexico on the right. It is the s…
- Chisos Basin – A high mountain basin at about 1,600 m above sea level, surrounded by the peaks of the Chisos Mountains. It is the hub of hiking and scenic…
- Lost Mine Trail – One of the park's most popular trails, ending at a rocky overlook on a ridge with views over pine-forested canyons and the mountains of Mex…
- Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive – A roughly 48 km paved scenic road linking volcanic landscape viewpoints, ending at Santa Elena Canyon.
- Window Trail – A trail that descends from the Chisos Basin to the "Window," a notch in the rock wall. At the end of the canyon, a cliff outlet frames a di…
- Terlingua Ghost Town – The stone house ruins of a former quicksilver mining town, now a frontier town where artists, restaurants, and bars gather.
- Boquillas Canyon – The longest canyon on the Rio Grande in the park's east end. A short trail leads to the dunes at the canyon mouth, and the far bank is Mexi…
- Langford Hot Springs – A natural hot spring pool on the bank of the Rio Grande. Spring water at about 41°C flows into the foundations of an old bathhouse, so you…
- Emory Peak – The highest peak in the Chisos Mountains, at about 2,385 meters. From the summit you get a 360-degree view of Big Bend and Mexico.
- Boquillas del Carmen – Cross the Rio Grande by small boat into a small Mexican village. Ride a donkey into the village, then try tacos and local crafts.
- Balanced Rock (Grapevine Hills) – A massive granite boulder pile topped by a suspended rock balanced on its summit, forming a natural stone window. It is a popular photo spo…
- Big Bend Ranch State Park & River Road – The largest state park in Texas. Along the Rio Grande, FM 170 River Road is one of the most scenic drives in the United States.
- Mule Ears Overlook – Along the scenic drive, you can look out at two volcanic rock peaks that resemble a mule's ears. You can also hike to a desert spring.
- Sotol Vista Overlook – A viewpoint on high ground along the scenic drive, with a view of a gap in the cliffs of Santa Elena Canyon about 24 km away.
- Tuff Canyon – A small, pale canyon cut into volcanic tuff by flowing water. There are viewing platforms, and you can also walk down to the canyon floor.
- Fossil Discovery Exhibit – A free open-air fossil exhibit showing dinosaur and giant crocodile fossils from the Cretaceous through the Paleogene periods in the Big Be…
- Ernst Tinaja – A natural stone pool carved out by water in a canyon. The rock layers around it are folded into colorful stripes, creating an unusual geolo…
- Rio Grande Village Nature Trail – A riverside wetland boardwalk and a viewpoint on a small hilltop. At sunset you can see the Sierra del Carmen Mountains in Mexico turn red.
- Castolon Historic District – A border settlement on the Rio Grande that preserves adobe barracks and trading post buildings from the early 20th century.
Where to eat
- Starlight Theatre Restaurant & Bar – A restaurant and bar in the Terlingua ghost town, converted from a 1930s movie theater, with live music at night. Pract…
- DB's Rustic Iron BBQ – Texas barbecue slow-smoked over mesquite and red oak, featured in Texas Monthly and often sold out early.
- Espresso y Poco Más Café – A small café in the ghost town that makes breakfast burritos to order and fresh-squeezed orange juice, with outdoor sea…
- Taqueria El Milagro – A family-run, partly open-air taco stop with handmade corn tortillas and a variety of salsas. You can bring your own dr…
Itineraries
- White Sands, Caverns & Big Bend – An El Paso loop taking you through White Sands, Carlsbad Caverns, Guadalupe Mountains, Marfa, and Big Bend.