Bicaz Gorges & Red Lake
A limestone gorge and dam-lake area in the eastern Carpathians. The gorge road winds between dramatic cliffs, Red Lake is dotted with dead tree stumps, and many hiking trails start from here.
The Bicaz Gorges and Red Lake lie in the eastern Romanian Carpathians, straddling Harghita and Neamț counties. The core of the area is Bicaz Gorge–Hășmaș National Park. At its western end, Red Lake is a landslide-dammed lake that formed in 1837. Dead tree trunks stand throughout the lake, and the village on its shore has wooden guesthouses and restaurants, making it the base for accommodation and hiking. Heading east, the DN12C road plunges into the roughly 8 km long Bicaz Gorge, where the cliffs rise up to 300 meters. The Hell's Throat section is the most thrilling. Nearby, you can climb Suhardul Mic for views over Red Lake, see Altar Rock, walk the Șugău gorge, or, if you are fit, tackle Hășmașul Mare. About 40 km east, the gorge opens onto Bicaz Dam and Bicaz Lake. On the north shore, Ceahlău Mountain can be hiked from Durău village to the waterfall or the summit.
June–September is best for hiking and boating, and October brings beautiful autumn colors. Winters are cold and snowy, and some trails close. Red Lake is about 25 km from Gheorgheni and 60 km from Piatra Neamț. Public transport is limited, so driving is recommended. Plan 1–2 days. Bears live in the mountains, so do not walk at night or feed wildlife.
Top sights
- Red Lake (Lacu Roșu) – A dam lake formed when a landslide in 1837 blocked the river valley. Dead tree trunks stand in the water, surrounded by pine forest, and yo…
- Bicaz Gorges – Romania's most spectacular gorge road. DN12C winds between limestone cliffs up to 300 metres high, and its narrowest point is known as Hell…
- Piatra Altarului – A solitary limestone peak rising from Bicaz Gorge, a famous climbing destination that is awe-inspiring when seen from the gorge road.
- Suhardul Mic – A viewpoint hill north of Red Lake; from the rocky summit you can look over the whole lake and gorge, making it the lake area's most popula…
- Hășmașu Mare – The highest peak in the national park at about 1,792 metres, with a limestone ridge and alpine meadows; a full-day hike.
- Șugău Gorges – A small, wild gorge east of Bicaz Gorge, where a stream runs through narrow rock crevices, with Munticelu Cave nearby.
- Lake Bicaz (Izvorul Muntelui) – The largest artificial lake in Romania, about 31 km long, with Ceahlău Massif reflected in its surface; take a boat trip or drive along the…
- Bicaz Dam – A concrete gravity dam about 127 metres high and Romania's first large hydroelectric plant; walk along the crest for views over the lake an…
- Ceahlău Massif (Toaca Peak) – Known as the 'Olympus of Romania', this massif has conglomerate cliffs and bizarre rock formations; the summit of Toaca offers views over L…
- Duruitoarea Waterfall – A two-tier waterfall in the Ceahlău Massif with a total drop of about 25 metres, reached in roughly 1.5 hours from Durău village along an e…
- Durău Monastery – An Orthodox monastery at the foot of the Ceahlău Massif, whose church murals are by the Romanian painter Nicolae Tonitza.
Where to eat
- Panorama Restaurant – A large restaurant right on the shore of Lake Roșu, with a lakeside terrace, known for hearty goulash, tripe soup and r…
- Casa Bicajeanului – The best-reviewed family guesthouse restaurant in the Red Lake village, where the owners cook Bicaz local dishes and sm…
- Hotel Lacu Roșu Restaurant – A large restaurant attached to Hotel Lacu Roșu, serving Székely and Hungarian flavours, with well-liked duck breast and…