Bhavnagar & Palitana

A former princely capital on the Saurashtra peninsula; nearby Palitana's Shatrunjaya Hill has more than 800 Jain temples, and you can also see blackbuck at Velavadar.

Bhavnagar lies on the east coast of the Saurashtra peninsula in Gujarat, India, on the western shore of the Gulf of Khambhat. Founded in 1723 by the Gohil dynasty, it is a former princely state capital and port city known for its cultural and educational atmosphere and its Gujarati snacks (such as ganthiya, crispy fried gram-flour strips). About 50 km southwest of the city, Palitana is one of the world's most important Jain pilgrimage sites, with more than 800 marble temples on Shatrunjaya Hill; about 45 km north of the city, Velavadar National Park is known for its herds of blackbuck.

Highlights: set aside a full day for the pilgrimage climb at Palitana (set off at dawn and descend in the afternoon; you can stay overnight in Palitana); Velavadar is best for safaris in the early morning or late afternoon; in Bhavnagar itself, see Nilambag Palace, Takhteshwar Temple, Gaurishankar Lake and the Barton Museum. On the coast, the Koliyak sea temple can only be reached on foot at low tide, and further south are the Talaja Caves and Gopnath Beach. The Alang ship-breaking yards are well known but generally closed to visitors.

Climate: Nov–Feb is cool, dry and most comfortable; Mar–Jun is hot, often topping 40°C at midday; during the monsoon, roughly Jun–Sep, rain is frequent, Shatrunjaya Hill traditionally closes to pilgrims for the rainy season, and Velavadar National Park also closes.

Getting there: Bhavnagar has an airport (mainly flights to Mumbai) and a railway station, and is about 3–4 hours' drive from Ahmedabad; Palitana is served by long-distance buses and hired cars. Gujarat is a dry state where alcohol is prohibited, and Palitana is a vegetarian town where meat is banned. Plan on 2–3 days.

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