Bay of Islands
The birthplace of New Zealand: a bay scattered with 144 islands, home to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, Hole in the Rock cruises and wild dolphins.
The Bay of Islands (Māori: Pēwhairangi) lies on the east coast of Northland in New Zealand's North Island, about 230 km from Auckland, roughly a 3.5-hour drive. Some 144 islands are scattered across a warm subtropical bay where dolphins and seabirds are a common sight. This is where New Zealand's history began: Māori were the first to settle here, European whalers established the first settlement at Russell, and the nation's founding treaty was signed at Waitangi in 1840. Visitors mostly stay in Paihia (home to the cruise wharf and most restaurants), the historic town of Russell across the water, or inland Kerikeri (orchards, wineries and the oldest colonial buildings). The main draw is getting out on the water: Hole in the Rock cruises, dolphin watching, sailing and island hopping, and hiking and camping on Urupukapuka Island. On land, visit the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, Flagstaff Hill in Russell, and the Hundertwasser Toilets and glowworm caves in Kawakawa. Classic day trips head north to Cape Reinga, Ninety Mile Beach and the Te Paki sand dunes, or west to Waipoua Forest to see Tāne Mahuta, the Lord of the Forest. Seasons: Dec–Mar is summer, the best time for boating and swimming but also peak season, so book accommodation early; Apr–May and Oct–Nov are quieter with mild weather; winter is rainy but boat trips still run. Getting there: InterCity buses and flights to Kerikeri depart from Auckland; local cruise departures are concentrated in Paihia, with a passenger ferry to Russell. Allow 2–4 days. Note: follow the rules on keeping your distance from dolphins and clean your shoes before landing on islands; when entering forests, disinfect your soles as required to prevent kauri dieback.
Top sights
- Waitangi Treaty Grounds – The site where the Treaty of Waitangi was signed in 1840, the birthplace of New Zealand as a nation, featuring the Treaty House, a Māori me…
- Hole in the Rock (Motukōkako) – A sea-carved island off Cape Brett with a hole through its rock. When conditions allow, tour boats sail straight through the opening, and d…
- Russell – New Zealand's first European settlement and the former capital site, once dubbed the “hellhole of the Pacific”, is now a quiet, elegant sea…
- Cape Reinga (Te Rerenga Wairua) – A lighthouse headland at the northern tip of New Zealand, where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific. In Māori legend, spirits set off from her…
- Paihia – The tourist hub and boat departure point of the Bay of Islands, where hotels, restaurants and tour operators line the waterfront.
- Urupukapuka Island – The largest island in the Bay of Islands, a predator-free sanctuary with bay walks, white-sand beaches and viewpoints, ideal for hiking and…
- Kerikeri Stone Store & Kemp House – New Zealand's oldest surviving stone building (1836) and oldest surviving wooden house (1822) stand side by side on the banks of the Kerike…
- Haruru Falls – A horseshoe-shaped waterfall on the Waitangi River, reached by a mangrove boardwalk walk from the Waitangi Treaty Grounds.
- Christ Church, Russell – Completed in 1836, New Zealand's oldest surviving church, with bullet holes from the 1845 fighting still visible in its wooden walls.
- Pompallier Mission & Printery – A rammed-earth printing works and tannery built in 1842 by French Catholic missionaries, with live demonstrations of hand printing and leat…
- Flagstaff Hill (Maiki) – The hill where Māori chief Hone Heke cut down the British flagstaff four times, offering panoramic views over Russell and the bay.
- Long Beach (Oneroa Bay) – A golden beach just over a hill east of Russell, with calm water that is good for swimming and picnics.
- Motuarohia (Roberton) Island – Two lagoons on the island have clear water, and a viewpoint at the summit overlooks the bay. It is a popular stop for cruises and yachts.
- Rainbow Falls (Waianiwaniwa) – A basalt waterfall about 27 m high on the Kerikeri River, reachable on foot from the Stone Store along the riverside path.
- Hundertwasser Toilets, Kawakawa – A public toilet block in colourful tiles, designed by Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser, often ranked among the most beautiful to…
- Bay of Islands Vintage Railway – A steam and diesel heritage train that leaves from Kawakawa's main street and runs right down the middle of the town, a sight rare in New Z…
- Kawiti Glowworm Caves – Limestone caves protected and run by the Kawiti whānau. Visitors enter on a guided tour, then the lights go out and the cave ceiling glows…
- Te Waimate Mission – Built in 1832, New Zealand's second-oldest building, once a farm mission run by the Church Missionary Society, with early furniture and gar…
- Ruapekapeka Pā – The site of the last battle of the Northern War in 1846, where trenches, earthen ramparts and gun emplacements remain well preserved.
- Matauri Bay & Rainbow Warrior Memorial – A long white-sand beach on the north coast, with a Rainbow Warrior memorial on the headland and the wreck as a well-known dive site.
- Whangaroa Harbour & St Paul's Rock – A deep, winding harbour surrounded by volcanic rock peaks. Climb St Paul's Rock for views over the harbour and mangroves, and it is also a…
- Mangōnui Fish Shop – A legendary fish and chip shop built on pilings over the bay, often rated among New Zealand's best fish and chips.
- Ninety Mile Beach – A beach of about 88 km along the west coast of the North Island, legally recognised as a road, where day-tour buses race along the sand.
- Te Paki Giant Sand Dunes – Golden dunes up to 100 metres high where you can rent sandboards and slide down from the summit. A must-stop on the Cape Reinga day trip.
- Tāne Mahuta & Waipoua Forest – Home to New Zealand's largest kauri, 'Tāne Mahuta, Lord of the Forest', estimated at about two thousand years old, with a girth of nearly 1…
Where to eat
- Duke of Marlborough Hotel Restaurant – A historic hotel restaurant on Russell's waterfront, operating since 1827 and holding New Zealand's first liquor licenc…
- Terra – A refined restaurant on Paihia's seafront serving modern New Zealand dishes built on seasonal Northland produce; ranked…
- Marsden Estate Restaurant – A vineyard lunch restaurant a few minutes from Kerikeri, with a grapevine-shaded terrace overlooking the lake and viney…
- Charlotte's Kitchen – A restaurant and bar at the end of Paihia wharf with water on three sides; its signature is a crispy pork hock that mus…
- The Gables – An Italian restaurant and wine bar in an 1847 waterfront house on Russell's seafront, said to be New Zealand's oldest r…
Itineraries
- Northland Twin Coast Loop – Depart from Auckland to loop around Northland, seeing kauri forests, Cape Reinga, and the Bay of Islands