San Carlos de Bariloche

The “Little Switzerland of South America,” ringed by Lake Nahuel Huapi and snowy Andean peaks, full of chocolate shops and log cabins, and the gateway to Northern Patagonia's Lake District.

San Carlos de Bariloche sits in the southwest corner of Argentina's Río Negro Province, on the south shore of Lake Nahuel Huapi, at about 770 m (2,500 ft). It is the gateway to Nahuel Huapi National Park, Argentina's oldest national park (established in 1934), and the main city of Northern Patagonia's “Lake District.” In the early 20th century many Swiss, German and Italian immigrants settled here, and its Alpine-style stone-and-timber buildings, chocolate shops and breweries earned it the nickname “Little Switzerland of South America.” It can be visited in any season: summer (Dec–Mar) has daytime highs of 20–27°C (68–81°F) and is the best time for lake-district hiking, kayaking and driving the Seven Lakes Route; in autumn (Apr–May) the forests turn red and yellow; winter (Jul–Sep) makes it one of South America's biggest ski destinations and a graduation-trip hotspot for Argentine students, with the July winter break the busiest; spring (Oct–Nov) brings flowers but changeable weather. Suggested plan: half a day in town (Civic Center, Mitre Street's chocolate row); one day for Cerro Campanario and the Circuito Chico; one day on a lake cruise to Isla Victoria and the Arrayanes Forest; half a day to a full day at Cerro Catedral (skiing in winter, cable car in summer); and one day driving the Seven Lakes Route (with an optional overnight in San Martín de los Andes). Getting around: Bariloche airport has flights to Buenos Aires (about 2 hours 20 minutes) and to places such as El Calafate; you can also arrive from Puerto Montt, Chile, via the cross-border lake-and-bus route (Cruce Andino) or by coach. City buses require a SUBE transit card. Plan on 3–5 days. Notes: Patagonian weather changes quickly, with sun and rain alternating within a day, so bring a windproof jacket even in summer; the lake water is icy, so be careful if swimming.

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