Bandhavgarh National Park

One of Madhya Pradesh's densest tiger reserves, where tigers are often seen among meadows, a clifftop fort and a reclining Vishnu statue.

Bandhavgarh National Park lies in Umaria district of Madhya Pradesh, India, in the eastern Vindhya Range. Its core zone covers about 716 sq km (the tiger reserve, including the buffer zone, exceeds 1,500 sq km), and it is famous for having one of the highest tiger densities in India; it is also where white tigers were first discovered. At the centre of the park rises a flat-topped sandstone hill about 800 m high, crowned by Bandhavgarh Fort, with the reclining Vishnu statue of Shesh Shaiya at its foot and caves bearing 2,000-year-old inscriptions scattered around. Jeep safaris are the main way to visit. The core is divided into three zones — Tala, Magadhi and Khitauli: Tala has the best scenery and highest tiger sightings, Magadhi is larger with plenty of gaur, and Khitauli is good for birding; buffer zones such as Panpatha and Dhamokhar lie outside. There are morning and afternoon safaris daily, which must be booked in advance under your own name on the Madhya Pradesh Forest Department website, with 6 people per jeep and a guide; in peak season (Feb–May) Tala often sells out months ahead. Seasons: the core zones open from mid-October to June and close during the July–September monsoon; November–February mornings are cold (below 5°C at times), so bring a heavy jacket; March–May is hot, but tigers congregate near water and are easiest to spot. Getting there: the nearest railway station is Umaria, about 32 km away, with Katni about 100 km and Jabalpur airport about 200 km (4–5 hours by road). Accommodation is concentrated in Tala village. Allow at least 2 nights and 3–4 safaris, and consider combining with Kanha National Park (about 250 km away).

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