Bandar Seri Begawan
Brunei's capital, home to the golden-domed mosque, Kampong Ayer – the world's largest water village – and the pristine Temburong rainforest: a quiet, prosperous, off-the-beaten-path destination.
Bandar Seri Begawan (BSB for short), the capital of Brunei, sits on the Brunei River along Borneo's northern coast. With a small population and an unhurried pace, it is one of the quietest capitals in Southeast Asia. The sights are tightly clustered: in the old town you can walk between the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, the Royal Regalia Museum and, across the river, the Kampong Ayer water village. About 5 km northwest, Gadong is the commercial district, with the Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque and a night market. Heading east across the Temburong Bridge (opened in 2020), it's about a 45-minute drive to the exclave of Temburong District, where you switch to longboats to head deep into the rainforest. The climate is equatorial, 28–32°C year-round with no distinct dry season; October to January is wetter, while February to April is relatively dry. Getting there: from China, connect via Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Hong Kong or similar hubs to Brunei International Airport (BWN), about 10 km from the city centre – a 15–20 minute taxi ride (taxis are scarce in Brunei, so use the local ride-hailing app Dart or book a car in advance). City buses are infrequent; most visitors get around on foot, by taxi and by water taxi. Plan on 2–3 days: Day 1, the old town's mosque, the Regalia Museum and the water village, then proboscis monkeys in the mangroves at dusk and the night market after dark; Day 2, a day trip to Ulu Temburong National Park; with extra time, join the Istana Nurul Iman open house during Hari Raya (Eid al-Fitr). Good to know: alcohol sales are banned nationwide, though non-Muslims may declare and bring in a small amount for personal use; Friday prayers run 12:00–14:00, when many shops and attractions close; to enter a mosque wear long sleeves and long trousers, women must cover their hair (robes can be borrowed at the mosque), and shoes come off at the door; during Ramadan, don't eat or drink in public during daylight hours. Entry rules change from time to time, so check the latest visa requirements for Chinese passport holders on the Brunei Immigration Department's official website before you go.
Top sights
- Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque – A gold-domed mosque completed in 1958 that rises above an artificial lagoon, the symbol of Bandar Seri Begawan.
- Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque – Brunei's largest mosque, its 29 golden domes symbolizing the 29th Sultan. It glows brilliantly at night.
- Kampong Ayer – One of the world's largest settlements of stilt houses on water. Water taxis carry visitors past wooden walkways, schools and mosques.
- Ulu Temburong National Park – A pristine rainforest known as the 'Green Jewel of Borneo.' Visitors travel upriver by longboat and climb to a canopy walkway about 50 mete…
- Royal Regalia Museum – A free museum displaying the sultan's coronation carriage, gold ceremonial regalia, and state gifts from around the world. It offers a wind…
- Istana Nurul Iman – The world's largest occupied royal palace, normally viewed only from the river or outside. During the Hari Raya open days, visitors can ent…
- Gadong Night Market – Brunei's most famous night market, with hundreds of stalls selling grilled chicken wings, coconut rice, and a variety of Malay sweets at af…
- Brunei River Mangrove Proboscis Monkey Cruise – A boat trip of just over ten minutes from downtown takes you through mangrove forests to see wild proboscis monkeys, an animal experience u…
- Brunei Museum – Brunei’s largest national museum, displaying Islamic art, Bruneian history, and petroleum industry exhibits, sitting on a hill overlooking…
- Malay Technology Museum – A folk museum on the banks of the Brunei River that uses full-scale reconstructions to display stilt houses over the water, fishing gear, b…
- Tasek Lama Recreational Park – A rainforest park just north of the city center, with a waterfall, reservoir, and hiking trails. Long-tailed macaques and tropical birds ar…
- Tamu Kianggeh – An open-air traditional market by the Kianggeh River in the old town, selling tropical fruit, vegetables, spices, and Malay snacks. It is a…
- Jerudong Park – A amusement park built by the sultan for the nation that was once among the largest in Southeast Asia and is now a popular nighttime leisur…
- The Empire Brunei – A luxury resort hotel on the South China Sea that was originally a royal guesthouse. Its golden lobby and seaside sunsets attract visitors…
- Temburong Bridge – A sea-crossing bridge that opened in 2020, spanning about 30 km and linking across Brunei Bay to Temburong District. It is one of the longe…
- Bukit Shahbandar Forest Recreation Park – A forest park in the hills near Jerudong, with undulating red-earth trails and lookout towers offering views of the South China Sea. It is…
- Taman Haji Sir Muda Omar Ali Saifuddien – A riverside park and promenade in the old town on the north bank of the Brunei River, facing Kampong Ayer. In the evening, you can watch wa…
- Tasek Merimbun Heritage Park – Brunei’s largest natural lake, a dark-water lake in Tutong District surrounded by rainforest, with a small island linked by a wooden walkwa…
- Muara Beach – A beach lined with casuarina trees near Muara Port in northeastern Brunei, popular with local families for weekend picnics. In the evening…
- Peradayan Forest Reserve – A primary rainforest reserve in Temburong District. Climbing Bukit Peradayan and Bukit Patoi offers views over an endless expanse of rainfo…
- Yayasan Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah Complex – A shopping center in the heart of the old town, directly across from Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque. Its Islamic-style architecture makes it a…
Where to eat
- Aminah Arif Restaurant (Batu Bersurat Branch) – A well-known ambuyat restaurant in Brunei, popular with locals and foreign visitors who come to try the national dish.
- Gadong Night Market – A local night market with about 150 stalls, where grilled dishes, Malay snacks and Bruneian flavors cost only BND 1–2.
- Tarindak D'Seni Restaurant – A riverside buffet restaurant on the first floor of the Arts and Crafts Training Centre, where you can sample many Brun…
- Thien Thien Restaurant (Kiulap Branch) – A long-established Hainanese chicken rice restaurant with over forty years of history, popular with locals at lunch, wh…
- Riwaz Indian Restaurant – A modern Indian restaurant inside the Radisson hotel that has long ranked first among local restaurants on Tripadvisor…
Itineraries
- Bandar Seri Begawan & Temburong Rainforest Classic – Based in the capital, explore golden mosques and the water village, with a day trip to Temburong Rainforest for the can…
- Brunei East & West Wings In-Depth Self-Drive – Spend two days in the capital, then drive east to overnight in Temburong, followed by a western journey to Lake Merimbu…
- North Borneo: Brunei, Miri, Mulu & Kota Kinabalu – Travel overland from Brunei to Sarawak to see Niah Caves and the Mulu World Heritage site, then fly to Kota Kinabalu fo…