Baler

The birthplace of Philippine surfing, with Sabang Beach on the Pacific, Mother Falls and a millennium-old tree, plus hidden coves and sites from the Siege of Baler nearby.

Baler is the capital of Aurora province on the east coast of Luzon in the Philippines, facing the Pacific Ocean with the Sierra Madre at its back. It is about a 5–6 hour drive from Manila (via Cabanatuan in Nueva Ecija and over the mountain road), or you can take a direct Genesis/Joy Bus coach. This is the birthplace of Philippine surfing: in 1979, Apocalypse Now was filmed at Sabang Beach, and the surfboards left behind by the crew launched the local surf culture. The town is also the hometown of former president Manuel Quezon, and the Siege of Baler, when Spanish troops held out in Baler Church for 337 days in 1898–1899, is the origin of Philippine–Spanish Friendship Day. The sights fall into three parts: the walkable town centre (Baler Church, Museo de Baler, the Doña Aurora Quezon house and Quezon Memorial Park) and surfing at Sabang Beach; a half day along the east coast (Ermita Hill, the Cemento Reef break, the Digisit rocky coast and a boat trip to Dicasalarin Cove); and a half day inland (Ditumabo Mother Falls in San Luis and the Millennium Tree in Maria Aurora). With more time, head north to Dinadiawan's white-sand beach in Dipaculao, or south to Dingalan for its lighthouse coast. Best time to visit: from October to February the northeast monsoon brings the best waves, and surf festivals are mostly held in this period; March to May is sunny with calm seas, ideal for the coves and waterfalls; July to November is typhoon season, when landslides are common on the mountain road. Tricycles get you around town, and hiring one for the day makes visiting nearby sights easy. Plan on 2–3 days.

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