Bahir Dar & Lake Tana
A lakeside city at the source of the Blue Nile; take a boat to ancient monasteries on the lake's islands covered in murals, then see the "smoking" Blue Nile Falls.
Bahir Dar is the capital of Amhara Region in northwestern Ethiopia, on the southern shore of Lake Tana at about 1,800 m, where the Blue Nile flows out of the lake. With palm-lined streets and a mild climate, it is a relaxing stop on the Northern Historic Circuit (Gondar, Lalibela, Aksum). The main sights fall into three groups. First, the Lake Tana monasteries: about 20 monasteries from the 14th–18th centuries are scattered across islands and peninsulas in the lake. Ura Kidane Mehret and Azwa Maryam on the Zege Peninsula and Debre Maryam at the lake's outlet are close to the city and can be visited on a half-day boat trip; Dek Island, Daga Island and Tana Kirkos are farther away and require a full-day boat charter, and some monasteries allow only men to land. Second, the Blue Nile Falls, about 30 km southeast of the city, most spectacular in the July–October rainy season and just after; in the dry season, water diverted upstream for hydropower greatly reduces the flow. Third, the city itself: the lakeside promenade, the Saturday market, sunset at Bezawit Hill, and hippos at the Abay River outlet. The best season is the October–March dry season, and the Epiphany (Timket) religious procession around January 19 is especially distinctive; June–September is the rainy season, with frequent afternoon showers, but the falls are at their most spectacular. Getting there: the flight from Addis Ababa to Bahir Dar takes about 1 hour, and the overland journey about 10 hours; in town, get around by tuk-tuk (bajaj), and charter a boat at the lakeside dock, agreeing the price in advance. We suggest staying 2–3 days. The situation in Amhara Region has changed considerably in recent years, so be sure to check the latest safety advisories from the Chinese Ministry of Foreign Affairs and the Chinese embassy in Ethiopia before traveling, and check that flights and roads are operating normally.
Top sights
- Lake Tana Monasteries – The source lake of the Blue Nile, with dozens of ancient monasteries on its islands and peninsulas. Round thatched-roof churches are filled…
- Blue Nile Falls – Known locally as “Tis Abay,” meaning “smoking water,” the Blue Nile plunges about 40 meters here after leaving Lake Tana. In the rainy seas…
- Ura Kidane Mehret – The best-known round thatched-roof church on the Zege Peninsula. Its inner sanctuary is covered with vividly colored Bible murals, and both…
- Zege Peninsula – A wooded peninsula reaching into Lake Tana. Many monasteries are hidden among its wild coffee forests, and you can land and walk between th…
- Azwa Maryam Monastery – Another round church on Zege Peninsula, with simpler, more archaic murals. It is often visited together with Ura Kidane Mehret.
- Debre Maryam Monastery – A monastery on a small island where the Blue Nile flows out of Lake Tana. It is the closest monastery to town, and you can see hippos at th…
- Blue Nile Outlet – The point where the Blue Nile leaves Lake Tana to begin a journey of over 6,000 km. Boat trips here offer sightings of hippos, pelicans and…
- Bezawit Hill (Haile Selassie Palace) – A small hill southeast of town with the hilltop palace of Emperor Haile Selassie, overlooking the winding Blue Nile and the city of Bahir D…
- Bahir Dar Market – A traditional open-air market southwest of town. On market days, livestock, spices, papyrus weaving and handicrafts crowd the streets.
- Bahir Dar Lakeshore – A lakeside district lined with palms and jacaranda trees, with hotels and cafés along the shore. At dusk you can watch the sunset and papyr…
- Kebran Gabriel Monastery – One of the island monasteries closest to town. A 17th-century round church stands on a tree-covered islet, and only men may land.
- Entos Eyesus Monastery – A women's monastery on a small island next to Kebran Gabriel, with newly painted murals and a small display of religious objects. Both men…
- Narga Selassie – An 18th-century stone church on Dek Island, the largest island in Lake Tana. Built under Empress Mentewab, it shows Gondar-style architectu…
- Daga Estifanos Monastery – An ancient monastery on the hilltop of a small island beside Dek Island. It houses the remains of several Ethiopian emperors, and only men…
- Tana Qirqos – A small island on Lake Tana's east shore, where the Ark of the Covenant is said to have been kept for 800 years. Ancient sacrificial stone…
- St. George's Church, Bahir Dar – The Orthodox cathedral in the city center, with many worshippers. During festivals and early-morning services you can feel the atmosphere o…
- Bahir Dar Martyrs' Memorial – A tall monument and memorial on the east bank of the Blue Nile, honoring those who died in the civil war against the Derg regime. It is one…
- Awra Amba Community – A village community known for gender equality, no religious practice and cooperative management. Visitors can tour its weaving workshops, s…
Where to eat
- Wude Coffee – A wood-and-stone garden café on Lakeside Road, popular for traditional coffee ceremonies and a range of chechebsa break…
- Checheho Cultural Restaurant – Bahir Dar's best-known folk restaurant, with azmari musicians and regional dances at dinner, and honey wine served.
- Yiredaw Fish Restaurant – A fish specialist popular with locals, known for whole grilled tilapia with chili dip and house-made injera, with a men…