Badong (Hubei)

At the mouth of the Yangtze's Wu Gorge: unique "pea-pod" boats and trackers' chants on Shennong Stream, Badong Yangtze River Bridge lit up at night, and high-altitude summer escapes at Yesanguan.

Badong County lies in western Hubei, in the northeast corner of the Enshi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture. The Yangtze cuts across the north of the county, bordering Wushan in Chongqing to the west and Zigui in Yichang to the east, and the eastern stretch of the Wu Gorge lies within Badong. The county seat, Xinling Town, climbs the hillside along the river; it was rebuilt entirely after the Three Gorges Dam reservoir was filled and is an important port of call for Yangtze Three Gorges cruises. Badong is best known for Shennong Stream: rising in Shennongjia, it joins the Yangtze just west of town, and riding a "pea-pod" boat hauled by Tujia trackers is one of the most distinctive experiences in the Three Gorges. This destination uses Badong's county seat as its base and covers Shennong Stream and the surrounding area, along with Yesanguan and Lücongpo in the highlands of southern Badong; the Wu Gorge, Goddess Peak and the Lesser Three Gorges are covered under "Wushan & Fengjie," while Zhaojun Village in Xingshan and Shennongjia are separate destinations.

Seasons: Apr–Oct is peak season for Shennong Stream boat trips and Yangtze cruises, and the gorges' autumn colors are best in Oct–Nov. The county seat is hot in Jul–Aug, but Yesanguan and Lücongpo in the south sit at 1,200–1,800 m and are among Hubei's summer retreats. From December to February you can ski at Lücongpo, while low water in winter may suspend some sections of Shennong Stream. Getting there: Badong Station on the Yichang–Wanzhou Railway has bullet trains to Yichang and Enshi, and the Shanghai–Chongqing Expressway runs through the county; Three Gorges cruises (Chongqing–Yichang) often stop at Badong for a Shennong Stream excursion. Plan on 1–2 days: one day for Shennong Stream, then the Yangtze bridge lit up at dusk; in summer, add a cool escape to Yesanguan. Note: mountain roads are winding, so watch for falling rocks in the rainy season, and life jackets are required on boats. Tujia culture highlights: the Sayerhe funeral dance, Tujia cured pork and hezha (tofu-and-greens stew).

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