São Miguel, Azores

The "Green Island" of the mid-Atlantic: twin-coloured crater lakes, Furnas hot springs and geothermally cooked stew, with whale watching year-round – Europe's little Hawaii.

São Miguel is the largest and most populous island of Portugal's Azores archipelago, located in the middle of the Atlantic about 1,450 km from Lisbon. Around 65 km from east to west, it was formed by several volcanoes fused together and is dotted with crater lakes, hot springs, tea plantations and pastures framed by hydrangeas – hence its nickname, the "Green Island". The climate is mild and oceanic, around 12–25°C year-round, but rainy and misty, with four seasons in a day; May–Oct is the best time to visit, and Apr–Jun is peak whale-watching season (sperm whales are seen all year, while blue and fin whales migrate past in spring). The capital, Ponta Delgada, is the hub for transport and accommodation, with an international airport: direct flights from Lisbon and Porto take about 2 hours, and many European cities have seasonal direct flights. Sightseeing usually follows four routes: in the west, the Sete Cidades crater (Lagoa das Sete Cidades, Miradouro da Vista do Rei, Boca do Inferno), the sea hot springs at Ferraria and sunsets at Mosteiros; in the centre, Lagoa do Fogo, Caldeira Velha hot springs and, on the north coast, the Gorreana tea plantation and Ribeira Grande; in the east, the Furnas volcanic valley (cozido stew, Terra Nostra Park hot springs, Pico do Ferro viewpoint) and the Vila Franca do Campo islet; and in the northeast, the viewpoints, waterfalls and lighthouses of Nordeste. Whale-watching trips of about 3 hours also depart from Ponta Delgada marina. Public transport on the island is infrequent, so renting a car is strongly recommended; mountain roads are winding and often foggy. Stay 4–6 days, and check the live mountain webcams before choosing which route to take. Some popular spots (Caldeira Velha, the trail down to Lagoa do Fogo, the Vila Franca do Campo islet) require reservations or have visitor caps – check the official websites before you go.

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Itineraries