Ayutthaya

Siam's old capital north of Bangkok, with Wat Mahathat's Buddha head wrapped in tree roots and red-brick pagodas across the city; Thailand's most important World Heritage ancient city.

Ayutthaya lies about 80 km north of Bangkok, where the Chao Phraya, Pa Sak and Lopburi rivers meet. From 1350 to 1767 it was the capital of Siam's Ayutthaya Kingdom, and at its peak it had a million inhabitants and traded with China, Japan, Persia and Europe. After it was sacked and burned by the Burmese army in 1767, it was left with extensive red-brick pagodas and headless Buddha statues, and in 1991 it was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site as the Historic City of Ayutthaya. The old city sits on an island ringed by three rivers, with the ruins concentrated in the Historical Park in the island's centre-west (Wat Mahathat, Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Wat Ratchaburana, Wat Lokaya Sutha and others, all reachable on foot or by bike). Beyond the island, Wat Chaiwatthanaram on the west bank and Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon and Wat Phanan Choeng to the southeast require a motorbike or tuk-tuk; another 20 km south is Bang Pa-In Summer Palace. Climate: the cool season from November to February (25–32°C) is the most comfortable, and also the busiest time for Bangkok visitors. March–May is scorching, reaching 40°C, and the ruins offer no shade, so visit early in the morning or late in the afternoon. June–October is the rainy season with occasional flooding; around October, when the Chao Phraya runs high, the riverbank at Wat Chaiwatthanaram may flood. Getting there and around: take a train from Bangkok's Hua Lamphong or Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal (1.5–2 hours; third class costs THB 15–20, very cheap), or a minivan from the Mo Chit bus terminal or Victory Monument (about 1.5 hours, roughly THB 70–100). A taxi or chartered car takes about 1–1.5 hours (about THB 1,200–1,500 one way). You can also join a Bangkok day tour that includes a cruise back. Within the city, rent a bicycle (about THB 50 per day) or motorbike (about THB 200–300 per day), or hire a tuk-tuk (about THB 200–300 per hour). Recommended stay: 1 day for the classic four temples plus sunset at Wat Chaiwatthanaram, or 2 days adding Bang Pa-In Summer Palace, Wat Phanan Choeng, the night market and a river cruise. Good to know: cover shoulders and knees in temples; the steps up the pagodas are steep; do not climb on or sit on Buddha statues and pagodas for photos (it is illegal); when posing with the Buddha head in the tree roots at Wat Mahathat, your head must not be higher than the Buddha's, so crouch down; the six-temple combination ticket costs THB 220 and is valid for 30 days; the sun is fierce by day, so bring water and sun protection; elephant rides raise animal-welfare concerns and are not recommended.

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Itineraries