Atiu

A raised coral island in the Cook Islands, home to Anatakitaki Cave, where Cook Islands swiftlets nest, along with jungle beer gatherings and coffee plantations, all at a slow, unspoiled pace.

Atiu is in the southern Cook Islands, about 215 km from Rarotonga, the capital, a flight of about 45 minutes. It is an ancient volcanic island encircled by a raised coral reef platform (makatea), covering about 27 km² with a population of a few hundred. The island's central highlands hold five villages and fields of coffee and taro. The outer ring is sharp coral limestone forest and caves, and the outermost edge is a narrow lagoon with small bays. The island's old name, Enuamanu ('land of birds'), reflects its fame for birdwatching and caves. Anatakitaki Cave is home to Cook Islands swiftlets, the Rimarau burial cave tells of the tribes' past, and a tunnel beneath Lake Tiroto leads to the sea. In the evening you can join the unique jungle beer gathering, the tumunu.

May–October is the dry season, cool and with little rain, and the best time to visit. November–March is hot and humid and falls in the cyclone season. There is no public transport on the island. Visitors usually rent motorbikes or arrange transfers and guides through their accommodation. Caves and burial caves must be visited with a guide. Cash is essential and shops are few. Plan to stay 3–4 days, and confirm your return flights from Rarotonga.

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Where to eat