Astana

Kazakhstan's capital, where futuristic architecture such as the Bayterek Tower, Khan Shatyr and the Palace of Peace rises from the steppe in a modern spectacle.

Astana (Kazakh for "capital") is the capital of Kazakhstan, located on the Saryarka steppe in the north-central part of the country, with the Ishim River (Esil) flowing through the city. The capital moved here from Almaty in 1997, and following Kisho Kurokawa's master plan, a wave of landmarks by international architects rose on the left bank. The city was renamed Nur-Sultan from 2019 to 2022 before reverting to its original name in 2022. The heart of any visit is the roughly 2 km central axis on the left bank, Nurzhol Boulevard: at the western end is the tent-shaped Khan Shatyr, in the middle the Bayterek Tower and the Ak Orda presidential palace, and at the eastern end, across the Ishim, the pyramid-shaped Palace of Peace and Reconciliation, the Hazrat Sultan Mosque and the National Museum. You can see it all in a day on foot and by taxi. In the south, the EXPO 2017 grounds center on the giant Nur Alem sphere, while the right bank is the Soviet-era old town. The climate is extremely continental: winters (November–March) often drop to -30°C with blizzards, making it one of the coldest capitals in the world. June–August is the best time, with daytime temperatures of 20–30°C and long days; May and September are cooler but windy. Getting there: direct flights connect Beijing, Ürümqi and other cities (about 4–6 hours), and the airport is about 16 km from the city center. Within the city, Yandex Go taxis are recommended and inexpensive, and parts of the first phase of the light rail (LRT) have been running since 2024. Plan 2–3 days. Tips: since November 2023, holders of ordinary Chinese passports can enter Kazakhstan visa-free for up to 30 days per visit and no more than 90 days in any 180-day period (check the latest official rules of both countries); since March 2024, all of Kazakhstan uses UTC+5, 3 hours behind Beijing time; the currency is the tenge, and cards are accepted in most places.

Top sights

• Baiterek Tower – Astana's city emblem: a 97-metre white tower crowned with a golden glass sphere, inspired by the Kazakh myth of the Tree of Life and the bi…
• Khan Shatyr Entertainment Center – Norman Foster's giant transparent tent, 150 metres high, housing a shopping centre, an indoor park and a top-floor water park with a sandy…
• Nur Alem (EXPO 2017) – The main pavilion of the 2017 World Expo: a giant glass sphere about 80 metres across with eight exhibition floors showcasing future energy…
• Palace of Peace and Reconciliation – A 62-meter pyramid designed by Norman Foster, built for the Congress of Leaders of World and Traditional Religions. It houses an opera hall…
• Hazrat Sultan Mosque – A white mosque that opened in 2012, combining traditional Islamic style with Kazakh decoration. It was once the largest mosque in Central A…
• National Museum of the Republic of Kazakhstan – One of the largest museums in Central Asia. The Golden Hall displays the "Golden Man" of the Saka warrior and many gold ornaments, and the…
• Astana Opera – A neoclassical national opera and ballet theatre that opened in 2013. Its gilded auditorium is considered one of the most beautiful opera h…
• Astana Grand Mosque – The largest mosque in Central Asia, opened in 2022. Four 130-meter minarets and a huge blue dome, with room for more than 200,000 people in…
• Ak Orda Presidential Palace – The presidential palace at the eastern end of Nurzhol Boulevard. Its blue dome and golden spires are central to Astana's skyline.
• Nurzhol Boulevard – A pedestrian boulevard on the city's central axis, linking Khan Shatyr and the presidential palace. Fountains, sculptures, and skyscrapers…
• Independence Square & Kazakh Eli Monument – A 91-meter independence monument topped with the mythical bird Samruk, surrounded by the Independence Palace, the Palace of Peace and Recon…
• Duman Oceanarium – Often called one of the oceanariums farthest from the sea. A 70-meter underwater tunnel lets you see sharks and tropical fish, which makes…
• Atameken Map of Kazakhstan – An open-air miniature park that condenses landmarks from across Kazakhstan onto a giant map. You can tour the whole country in half an hour.
• ALZhIR Memorial and Museum Complex – The former site of a labor camp where the "wives of traitors to the Motherland" were held during the Soviet era. The memorial museum tells…
• Astana Botanical Garden – A large new botanical garden just north of the Expo site, with greenhouses, lakes, and shaded walking paths. It is a favorite place for loc…
• Triumph of Astana – A 142-meter tower modeled on Moscow's Stalinist "Seven Sisters" skyscrapers. It is the left bank's most nostalgic building.
• Nur-Astana Mosque – An early large mosque on the left bank, with a golden dome and four 63-meter minarets, located near the city's central axis.
• Kazakhstan Central Concert Hall – A petal-shaped concert hall designed by Italian architect Manfredi Nicoletti, with blue glass curtain walls that open in layers. It often h…
• Assumption Cathedral – One of the largest Orthodox churches in Central Asia. Its golden onion domes and white walls stand out against the steppe sky on the right…
• Astana Circus – A circus building shaped like a flying saucer, often hosting acrobatics, animal acts, and trapeze artists. It is a weekend favorite for loc…

Where to eat

• Qazaq Gourmet – Astana's first fine dining Kazakh restaurant, featured in 50 Best Discovery and famous for its 11-course tasting menu.
• Saksaul – A popular ethnic restaurant decorated in yurt style, highly recommended for its beshbarmak and open-fire grilled meats.
• Line Brew (Kenesary Street) – A local brewpub and steakhouse with medieval castle-style decor, renowned for its charcoal-grilled horsemeat steaks and…
• Rumi (Mega Silk Way) – A budget-friendly plov center inside the Mega Silk Way mall, convenient for a meal after visiting the Expo area.

Itineraries

• Astana & Burabay Lakes – Spend two days exploring the modern architecture of the steppe capital, then take a train to the pine forests, granite…
• Grand Kazakhstan Tour: Four Major Regions – Connect the Tian Shan, Silk Road cities, Caspian wilderness, and the capital with domestic flights to experience four d…