Asmara
Eritrea’s highland capital, whose Italian colonial-era modernist cityscape is a World Heritage Site as a whole — the Fiat Tagliero service station, Cinema Impero and café-lined streets feel frozen in time.
Asmara, the capital of Eritrea, sits on a plateau at about 2,350 m, with a cool, dry climate. In the 1930s the Italian colonial authorities built on a grand scale here, leaving behind a wealth of Futurist, Art Deco and Rationalist architecture; in 2017 the city was inscribed in its entirety on the World Heritage List as “Asmara: A Modernist African City”. Exploring is best done on foot: along Harnet Avenue you’ll find Cinema Impero, the Catholic Cathedral and old cafés; to the east lie the Great Mosque, Enda Mariam Orthodox Cathedral and the Medeber recycling market, where artisans work; to the southwest stands the iconic Fiat Tagliero service station. Outside the city you can charter a steam train on the century-old mountain railway, or visit Debre Bizen Monastery and the Filfil green belt. The best season is Oct–Apr, with daytime temperatures of about 20–25°C and cool mornings and evenings; Jun–Sep is the light rainy season. Practicalities: Eritrean visas must be applied for in advance, travel outside Asmara requires a permit from the Ministry of Tourism, and photographing government and military installations is forbidden; internet access and currency exchange are limited, so bring plenty of cash in US dollars or euros. Getting there: international flights connect via Cairo, Istanbul, Dubai and other hubs. Recommended stay: 3–4 days.
Top sights
- Fiat Tagliero Building – A futurist petrol station completed in 1938, with two 15-metre cantilevered “wings” that jut out without columns. A symbol of Asmara's mode…
- Harnet Avenue – A palm-lined main street with Art Deco cinemas, bars, and cafés on either side. In the evening, the pavements fill with strollers.
- Cathedral of Our Lady of the Rosary – A Lombard Romanesque Catholic cathedral beside Harnet Avenue. Its brick-red bell tower is one of the highest points in the city, and you ca…
- Medebar Market – An open-air workshop street for recycling, where craftsmen hammer old tyres, oil drums, and shell casings into sandals, stoves, and tools…
- Cinema Impero – An Art Deco cinema that opened in 1937. Its facade, with rows of round lights and a vertical lettered sign, has been preserved in its origi…
- Enda Mariam Cathedral – The cathedral of the Eritrean Orthodox Church, blending traditional Aksumite style with modern Italian architecture. Its exterior walls fea…
- Great Mosque of Asmara – The Great Mosque, completed in 1938, with a white minaret and dome that blend Italian Rationalism with Islamic style.
- Tank Graveyard – An open-air site on the edge of the city, packed with the wrecks of tanks, armoured vehicles and military trucks left over from the indepen…
- Asmara–Massawa Railway – A narrow-gauge mountain railway built during the Italian colonial era. Steam locomotives cross tunnels and cliffs as they descend from a 2…
- Asmara Theatre – An opera house completed in 1920 in the Neoclassical and Art Nouveau styles. The dome interior is decorated with murals, and the theatre is…
- Bar Zilli – A streamlined Art Deco café dating from 1939. Its rounded corners and neon lettering are preserved, and it is a good place to try a macchia…
- Debre Bizen Monastery – An Orthodox monastery founded in the 14th century on a mountaintop at about 2,400 metres. It is famous for its collection of ancient handwr…
- Filfil Green Belt – A tropical mountain forest on the eastern escarpment, shrouded in mist and home to troops of monkeys. It is a striking contrast to the dry…
- Keren – Eritrea's second-largest city, with a Monday camel market, Second World War cemeteries and the Mariam Dearit shrine in a baobab tree, makin…
Where to eat
- Ghibabo Restaurant – Asmara's most recommended restaurant, serving traditional Eritrean stews and Italian pizza from the same menu, with a p…
- Spaghetti Pizza House – A long-standing Italian-style eatery on Harnet Avenue, called by bloggers the best Italian-Eritrean food in Asmara, wit…
- Roof Garden Restaurant – An Indian and Chinese restaurant on the top floor of a building with city views, popular with expatriates and priced at…