Anyue Rock Carvings

Known as China's "Home of Stone Carvings": the Tang-dynasty Reclining Buddha and carved sutras at Wofoyuan, Yuanjue Cave and the Purple Bamboo Guanyin at Pilu Cave — older and wilder than Dazu — plus the distinctive flavors of China's lemon capital.

Anyue County lies in the east of Ziyang, Sichuan, in the hilly heart of the province between Chengdu and Chongqing, and calls itself China's "Home of Stone Carvings". The county has more than 200 carving sites with over 100,000 statues, created from the Northern and Southern Dynasties and the Sui and Tang through to the Ming and Qing; the finest date from the Tang and Northern Song. The Anyue Grottoes are a Major Historical and Cultural Site Protected at the National Level. Carved earlier than Chongqing's Dazu Rock Carvings yet far less visited, they retain much more of a wild, untouched feel. Anyue is also China's largest lemon-growing area.

Areas to explore: the county town has Yuanjue Cave, Qianfozhai (Thousand Buddha Fort) and the Kui Pavilion at the Confucian Temple — good for your arrival day. The northern route leads to Wofoyuan (about 25 km) for the Tang Reclining Buddha and carved sutras, with Mumen Temple on the way. The southeastern Shiyang area (about 40 km) groups together the Purple Bamboo Guanyin at Pilu Cave, Huayan Cave, Mingshan Temple, Peacock Cave and the Gaosheng Giant Buddha, and needs a full day. To the northwest, Xuanmiao Taoist Temple has rare Tang-dynasty Taoist carvings. The Dazu Rock Carvings are about 60 km southeast and are listed under the Chongqing destination; Tongnan's Great Buddha Temple, about 50 km east, makes an easy add-on.

Seasons: Mar–May and Sep–Nov are best; in spring the hills bloom with rapeseed and lemon blossom, and Jul–Sep is lemon-picking season. Summers are hot and humid with frequent thunderstorms; winters are damp, cold and foggy. Getting there: between Chengdu and Chongqing, take the high-speed train to Ziyang North or Anyue Station, or a coach to Anyue town, then hire a car with driver or self-drive — public transport between sites is scarce. Allow 2 days: one for the county town and Wofoyuan, one for the Shiyang area. Note: most carvings are in the open air and must not be touched; some sites are remote, so check opening hours and ticket prices on site. Must-eats: Anyue rice rolls, Zhouli flatbread and lemon tea.

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