Diego Suarez (Antsiranana)

A port city on a huge bay at Madagascar's northern tip — gateway to the Emerald Sea, the Red Tsingy and the Amber Mountain rainforest, and the base for the northern circuit.

Diego Suarez (Antsiranana in Malagasy) is Madagascar's northernmost port city and capital of the Diana Region, set on the southern shore of Diego Suarez Bay, billed as the world's second-largest natural harbor. A former French naval base, it still has arcaded colonial buildings around Rue Colbert, and its streets blend Malagasy, Comorian, Indian and French influences. The city itself has few sights and mainly serves as a base for Madagascar's northern circuit: boat out of the bay to the northeast to reach the Emerald Sea, ringed by shallow sandbanks; drive to Ramena Beach and hike to the "Three Bays" — Sakalava Bay, Pigeons Bay and Dunes Bay — and the Orangea Lighthouse; east of town, hike Montagne des Français for karst scenery and panoramic bay views, while Sugarloaf Island at the mouth of the bay is the city's emblem; to the south lie the rainforest of Amber Mountain National Park (lemurs, chameleons, waterfalls) about 50 km away, the Red Tsingy about 60 km away, and the grey limestone pinnacles and caves of Ankarana National Park about 110 km away (doable as a day trip or with a night near the reserve).

Climate: the April–November dry season is best; from June to September strong southeast trade winds make it kitesurfing season at the Three Bays, though Emerald Sea boat trips are occasionally canceled due to rough seas; December–March is the hot, humid rainy season with frequent cyclones, and some dirt roads become difficult. Getting there: Antsiranana Airport has flights to Antananarivo and Nosy Be, and the RN6 highway links it overland; locally, get around by taxi, tuk-tuk or hired car — for the Red Tsingy and Ankarana it's best to hire a 4WD and a local guide (guides are mandatory in the national parks). Allow 3–5 days. Protect yourself against mosquitoes and sun, and expect strong winds in the mornings and evenings during the dry season.

Top sights

• Emerald Sea – A shallow lagoon encircled by coral reef just outside the bay mouth, where the water glows emerald green. Sail out, snorkel and enjoy lunch…
• Tsingy Rouge – Red earth eroded by rain into spire-shaped earth forests in alternating red, orange and white. The canyons are lined with jagged 'red stone…
• Amber Mountain National Park – A humid rainforest on a volcanic mountain, with waterfalls, a volcanic crater lake, crowned lemurs, the tiny dwarf chameleon, leaf-tailed g…
• Ankarana National Park – A protected area where grey limestone tsingy stone forests, caves and sinkhole rainforests interweave. Suspension bridges cross the stone f…
• Three Bays – Three adjoining white-sand bays east of Ramena, linked by a hike past a lighthouse and old military ruins; Sakalava Bay is a famous kitesur…
• Ramena Beach – A white-sand fishing village beach just inside the bay mouth, with coconut palms and coloured fishing boats; the starting point for Emerald…
• Montagne des Français – A limestone upland conservation area east of town, where walking trails pass small tsingy, baobabs and caves, with panoramic views over the…
• Nosy Lonjo (Sugar Loaf) – A steep, cone-shaped islet standing alone in the bay, resembling a French sugar loaf and serving as the emblem of Antsiranana; best viewed…
• Diego Suarez Old Town & Rue Colbert – The main street lined with arcaded colonial buildings from the French naval era, with cafés, restaurants and travel agencies; the heart of…
• Windsor Castle (Madagascar) – A mesa-like volcanic rock peak on the western shore of the bay, with World War II French defensive ruins on its summit and views over Diego…
• Lake Antanavo (Sacred Crocodile Lake) – A sacred lake near Anivorano Nord; local legend holds that the crocodiles in it were once villagers, and visitors can get close to them dur…

Where to eat

• Le Melville – A seafront restaurant at Hôtel Allamanda with a terrace overlooking Diego Suarez Bay, consistently ranked among the cit…
• Tsara Be Vaovao Restaurant – A long-standing fine-dining restaurant on Rue Colbert, where the chef blends French and Malagasy flavours using vegetab…
• Su e Giu Pizzeria – A second-floor Italian pizzeria on Rue Colbert with a large balcony overlooking the old street. It is affordable and co…

Itineraries

• Northern Diego to Nosy Be Crossing – Head south from Diego through Amber Mountain and two tsingy formations, then cross the sea from Ankify to finish in Nos…