Antsirabe

The highland spa town known as the "city of water" and Madagascar's rickshaw capital, with crater lakes, craft workshops and terraced villages — the first stop on the RN7.

Antsirabe lies in the Vakinankaratra Region of Madagascar's central highlands at an altitude of about 1,500 m, about 170 km from the capital, Antananarivo, and is the country's third-largest city. Norwegian missionaries discovered hot springs here in the late 19th century, and the French colonial authorities then developed it into a highland spa town; its broad tree-lined avenues, railway station and thermal hotel all survive today. It is the first stop on the route south along the RN7 highway and is famous for streets full of brightly painted rickshaws (pousse-pousse), earning it the title "rickshaw capital". In town, you can ride a rickshaw past the railway station, Independence Avenue, the cathedral and the market, and visit workshops making zebu-horn items, miniature models and embroidery; west of town are the crater lakes of Andraikiba and Tritriva and the rice terraces of Betafo, ideal for a day trip by hired car, bike or on foot. About 90 km south is Ambositra, the woodcarving town, and further southeast are the Zafimaniry villages, whose woodcraft is on UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage list. The Apr–Nov dry season is the best time to travel; during the highland winter of Jun–Aug, nights can drop to around 5°C, so bring a jacket. It's about a 4-hour drive from the capital by hired car or long-distance minibus (taxi-brousse). Plan on 2 days: one for the town and one for the crater lakes. Agree on prices for rickshaws and workshops in advance, and avoid walking alone at night.

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