Anhua

China's home of dark tea, with Dongshi Old Street on the Tea Horse Road, the Yongxi covered bridge, high-mountain tea gardens on Yuntai Mountain, Xuefeng Lake and the intangible heritage of Qianliang tea.

Anhua lies in north-central Hunan, southwest of Yiyang. The Zi River crosses the county from west to east, and offshoots of the Xuefeng Mountains rise ridge after ridge, with forest cover above 70%. The county seat is Dongping, while the old county town is Meicheng to the east. Anhua is known as "China's Home of Dark Tea": as early as the Ming dynasty its tea was sold to the northwest as official tribute tea, and dark teas such as Qianliang, Fu brick and Tianjian were shipped out along the Zi River and the Tea Horse Road. Today the county town is lined with tea factories and shops, and dark tea is the main theme of any visit.

Where to go: ① Around Dongping — the China Dark Tea Museum, the old tea market of Huangshaping across the river, Tangjiaguan Ancient Town on the north bank of the Zi River, and nearby Chenshan Green Valley and the Tea Country Flower Sea; ② The Tea Horse Road Scenic Area in Jiangnan town — Dongshi Old Street, the Gaoma Erxi tribute tea gardens and the Yongxi covered bridge, good for a half-day to full-day hike; ③ The west — high-mountain tea gardens on Yuntai Mountain in Malu town and the Liubuxi primeval forest; ④ The south — boat trips on Xuefeng Lake (Zhexi Reservoir) and hiking at Jiulongchi; ⑤ The east — the Anhua Confucian Temple in Meicheng and the Xianxi Meishan Cultural Ecology Park; the Baishaxi Tea Factory in Xiaoyan town lets you watch Qianliang tea being pressed by foot.

The best times to visit are the spring tea season in Apr–May and autumn from Sep–Nov; in summer Yuntai Mountain and Jiulongchi offer cool relief, but the Zi River basin gets frequent heavy rain in Jun–Jul. Getting there: about 3 hours' drive from Changsha, or take a high-speed train to Yiyang or Xinhua and transfer; Anhua Station is served by conventional trains. Allow 2–3 days; sights are spread out, so driving is best. Local specialties include Anhua dark tea, Anhua cured pork, pounded tea and sweet potato noodles. Tips: mountain roads are winding, so watch for falling rocks in the rain; buy dark tea from official factory stores and be wary of high-pressure sales of overpriced "aged tea".

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