Ancona & Conero

Capital of the Marche and an Adriatic port, with white cliffs and turquoise bays on Monte Conero; nearby are the Basilica of Loreto, the Frasassi Caves and the poet Leopardi's hometown of Recanati.

Ancona, capital of the Marche region in central Italy, sits on an elbow-shaped headland on the Adriatic coast. It has been a port ever since the ancient Greeks founded it, and ferries still sail from here to Croatia and Greece. This destination uses Ancona as a base and covers the Conero coast to its south plus the classic day trips within 50 km. In town, the highlights cluster around the port and the hillside old town: the Cathedral of San Ciriaco atop Colle Guasco, the Arch of Trajan and the pentagonal Mole Vanvitelliana by the harbour, Piazza del Plebiscito, and the rocky Passetto shoreline where locals swim. South of the city, Monte Conero is one of the few mountains rising straight from the sea on Italy's Adriatic coast; beneath its white limestone cliffs lie turquoise bays at Portonovo, Mezzavalle, Sirolo and Numana, and the Due Sorelle beach, reachable only by boat, is the Marche's signature view. Inland, you can visit the Catholic pilgrimage site of the Basilica of the Holy House in Loreto, Recanati — hometown of the poet Giacomo Leopardi — and Castelfidardo, the accordion capital; about 50 km southwest are the Frasassi Caves, among the most spectacular in Europe, along with the Valadier Temple built into a cave; to the north, Senigallia has its fine-sand “Spiaggia di Velluto” (Velvet Beach). The best season is the June–September beach season; in July–August the bays and car parks get very crowded and boat tickets to Due Sorelle should be booked ahead. Spring and autumn are mild and good for hiking, pilgrimages and the caves, though some seaside restaurants are closed. Getting there: Ancona has an airport (AOI) and lies on Italy's main coastal railway line, about 2 hours from Bologna and 3–4 hours from Rome; buses run from the city to the Conero bays in summer, but a car gives the most flexibility. Allow 3–4 days: one day in Ancona, 1–2 days on the Conero coast, and one day for Loreto and Recanati or the Frasassi Caves. Local specialities include wild mussels (“moscioli”), Ancona-style fish stew (brodetto) and Rosso Conero and Verdicchio wines.

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