Amritsar

The holy city of the Sikhs: the Golden Temple mirrored in its sacred pool, a free community kitchen serving tens of thousands daily, and the rousing Wagah border ceremony at dusk.

Amritsar lies in the northwest of India's Punjab state, only about 50 km from Lahore in Pakistan, and is the holiest city of Sikhism. Its name means “pool of nectar”, after the sacred tank at the heart of the Golden Temple. The old city is centred on the Golden Temple and surrounded by narrow bazaars and century-old eateries; at the Attari–Wagah border, about 30 km west of the city, the India–Pakistan flag-lowering ceremony is held every evening. Climate: October to March is the best time, with mild days, though Dec–Jan mornings and evenings are cold and dense fog often disrupts flights and trains; Apr–Jun is scorching, reaching 45°C, and Jul–Sep is the monsoon season. During the Sikh festivals and Diwali in November the Golden Temple is ablaze with lights, and the crowds are at their biggest. Areas to explore: ① the Golden Temple complex – the Golden Temple, Akal Takht, the langar (community kitchen), the Central Sikh Museum and Baba Atal Rai tower; visit once by day and once at night; ② the walking circuit around the Golden Temple – the Heritage Street, Jallianwala Bagh, the Partition Museum, Hall Bazaar and a few long-established eateries; ③ the west of the city – Gobindgarh Fort, Durgiana Temple and Ram Bagh gardens; ④ the outskirts – the Wagah border, Pul Kanjari, Sadda Pind village, and to the south the Sikh pilgrimage sites of Tarn Taran, Bir Baba Budha Sahib and Goindwal, plus Harike Wetland. Getting there: Amritsar airport has flights to Delhi, Mumbai and elsewhere; from Delhi the Shatabdi or Vande Bharat express takes about 5–6 hours. In town, use e-rickshaws, Uber and app-booked tuk-tuks; the area around the Golden Temple is pedestrianised. Allow 2–3 days. Note: to enter the Golden Temple and all gurdwaras you must remove your shoes, wash your feet and cover your head (headscarves are provided free at the entrance); tobacco and alcohol are prohibited. For the border ceremony, bring your passport, leave bags behind and arrive 2 hours early. Chinese citizens must obtain an Indian visa in advance; check official sources for the latest policy.

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