Amasya
With the Yeşilırmak flowing through town, Pontic royal tombs carved into the cliffs and Ottoman wooden houses reflected in the river, this is northern Türkiye's most photogenic old town.
Amasya lies inland in the Black Sea region of north-central Türkiye. The Yeşilırmak River runs through the town between towering rocky hills, and the city stretches along the narrow valley, making it one of the most picturesque old towns in Türkiye. Its history runs deep: from the 3rd century BC it was the capital of the Kingdom of Pontus, and the ancient Greek geographer Strabo was born here; in Ottoman times it was a 'city of princes' where heirs to the throne were trained, with several future sultans serving as governor here in their youth, leaving behind many mosques, madrasas and tombs. The sights are concentrated on both banks: on the north bank are the rock-cut tombs of the Pontic kings, Harşena Castle on the hilltop and Ottoman wooden mansions along the water; on the south bank are the Bayezid II Mosque, the Ilkhanid hospital (darüşşifa), the Archaeology and Mummy Museum and the riverside promenade. At night the tombs and old houses are lit up and reflected in the river, the highlight of any visit. The best times to go are Apr–Jun and Sep–Oct, with apple blossom in spring and the local apple harvest in autumn; summer is hot in the valley and winter is cold with occasional snow. Getting there: it's about 5 hours by bus from Ankara, about 50 km from Merzifon Airport and about 130 km from Samsun; the old town is easy to explore on foot, but you'll need a taxi or car for the castle and Lake Borabay. Plan 1–2 days, and be sure to stay at least one night to see the town lit up.
Top sights
- Tombs of the Pontic Kings – Royal tombs of the Kingdom of Pontus carved into the cliffs of Harşena Mountain. The towering rock niches overlook the riverside houses and…
- Yalıboyu Houses – A row of 19th-century Ottoman timber houses along the north bank of the Yeşilırmak, backed by the rock-cut tombs. The riverside night view…
- Amasya Castle (Harşena Castle) – An old fortress on the summit of Harşena Mountain, built and repaired from the Pontic era through the Ottoman period. It overlooks the enti…
- Hazeranlar Mansion – An Ottoman riverside mansion built in 1865, with rooms furnished as a wealthy 19th-century household. It is the showpiece of the old houses…
- Sultan Bayezid II Mosque Complex – A riverside Ottoman mosque complex completed in 1486. Its courtyard shaded by centuries-old plane trees and its twin minarets make it a lan…
- Amasya Darüşşifa – A 14th-century Ilkhanid hospital where mental illness was once treated with music, the sound of running water and fragrances. It is now the…
- Amasya Archaeology Museum – A museum with artefacts from the Hittite to Ottoman periods. Its courtyard tomb displays several rare Ilkhanid-era mummies.
- Gökmedrese Mosque – A 13th-century Seljuk mosque with finely carved stone portals. Nearby stand a tomb decorated with blue tiles and the tomb of Turumtay.
- Burmalı Minare Mosque – A small 13th-century Seljuk mosque whose spiral grooves on its stone minaret make it distinctive. It sits in the old town on the south bank…
- Büyük Ağa Madrasa – An octagonal madrasa completed in 1488, a rare form in Ottoman architecture. It is still used as a Quran school.
- Aynalı Mağara – A Pontic rock-cut tomb about 3 km northeast of the city, named after its polished rock face, which once gleamed like a mirror. Remains of B…
- Ferhat Water Channel & Lovers Museum – An ancient water channel cut into the rock to fulfil a legend in which Ferhat tunnelled through the mountain to win Shirin. Nearby is a sma…
- Lake Borabay – A high mountain lake about 1,000 metres up, surrounded by pine forest. Its emerald water makes it the favourite weekend picnic and camping…
Where to eat
- Amaseia Mutfağı – A local restaurant in a two-story Ottoman house by the river in the old city, where keşkek, yogurt soup and broad bean-…
- Anadolu Mantı Evi – A family-style riverside eatery serving eight regional Turkish mantı dumplings and Amasya's broad bean-stuffed vine lea…
- Ali Kaya Viewpoint Restaurant – A grill restaurant on the Çakallar viewpoint hill, facing the castle and river valley, with views over all of Amasya.
Itineraries
- Ottoman Towns and Hittite Capital of Anatolia – Safranbolu wooden houses, Amasra harbor, Ankara museums, Hattusa, and the rock tombs of Amasya.