Alishan & Chiayi

The hometown of the song “The Girl from Alishan.” The forest railway winds through giant cedar groves, and Zhushan offers sunrise, a sea of clouds and high-mountain tea gardens. Don't miss the Chiayi chicken rice at the foot of the mountain.

Alishan lies in Chiayi County in south-central Taiwan, on the western side of the Alishan Range, which is part of the Yushan mountain chain. The core Alishan Forest Recreation Area sits at about 2,200 meters. It is famous for its five wonders: sunrise, the sea of clouds, sunset, the forest and the railway. Chiayi City at the foot of the mountain is the gateway to the mountains. It preserves cypress-wood buildings from the Japanese occupation period, when the forestry industry flourished, and it is the home of Chiayi chicken rice.

The best season for cherry blossoms is March and April, when Yoshino and double-flowered cherry trees are most popular. Autumn and winter (October–December) bring the most clear days, and the sea of clouds and sunrise are most reliable. Summer is good for escaping the heat, but afternoon thunderstorms are common, and typhoon season carries a risk of road closures. The average annual temperature on the mountain is about 10°C. In winter, early mornings can drop to near zero, so bring a down jacket.

The sights fall into four areas. (1) Alishan Forest Recreation Area: Zhushan sunrise, the giant tree trail, Sister Ponds and Zhaoping Park. (2) The mid-altitude mountain villages along the forest railway, such as Fenqihu Old Street and Zhuqi. (3) The high-mountain tea gardens along the Alishan Highway, including Shizhuo, Xiding and the Taiping Cloud Ladder. (4) Chiayi City: Chiayi Hinoki Village, Beimen Station and Wenhua Road Night Market, with extensions to the Palace Museum Southern Branch and climbs of Yushan.

For transport, take the high-speed rail or Taiwan Railways to Chiayi Station, then transfer to the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle Alishan Line buses (7322/7329). The ride up the mountain takes about 2.5 hours, and advance online booking is required. Alternatively, take the Alishan Forest Railway, which was fully restored to Alishan Station in July 2024. The trip takes about 4–5 hours one way, and tickets are extremely hard to get. Two to three days is recommended: stay one night on the mountain to watch the sunrise, and plan one day in Chiayi City. Note: mountain roads have many curves, which can cause motion sickness. The sunrise train schedule changes with the season, so confirm it at the station the night before. Climbing Yushan's main peak requires an entry application and a bed reservation at Paiyun Lodge.

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