Alice Springs

A small town at the heart of the Australian outback, with Aboriginal dot-painting galleries, the Royal Flying Doctor Service and School of the Air, and day trips to canyons and waterholes in the West MacDonnell Ranges.

Alice Springs sits at the geographic centre of the Australian continent, in the south of the Northern Territory, and is known as Mparntwe in the Arrernte language. The town is built on both banks of the Todd River, a sandy riverbed that is dry for most of the year, and the east–west MacDonnell Ranges are split just south of town by the Heavitree Gap. It is the transport hub of the Red Centre and a trading centre for Aboriginal desert art, about 450 km from Uluru and about 330 km from Kings Canyon. This destination focuses on the town and the East and West MacDonnell Ranges.

Sightseeing falls into three parts. First, in town: the Desert Park, the Telegraph Station Historical Reserve, the Royal Flying Doctor Service base, the School of the Air, the Araluen Cultural Precinct and the galleries on Todd Mall, plus sunset from Anzac Hill in the evening. Second, a day trip into the West MacDonnells (Tjoritja National Park), driving along Namatjira Drive past Simpsons Gap, Standley Chasm, Ellery Creek Big Hole, Serpentine Gorge, the Ochre Pits, Ormiston Gorge and Glen Helen Gorge. Third, the East MacDonnells, with Emily and Jessie Gaps, Corroboree Rock and Trephina Gorge, which see far fewer visitors.

The climate is arid desert: May–September is the best season, with daytime temperatures of 20–25°C; April and October are warm; from November to March temperatures above 40°C are common, and only early-morning activities are suitable.

Getting there: Alice Springs Airport has flights from the state capitals, and The Ghan train links Adelaide and Darwin. The gorges and waterholes essentially require a rental car or a tour. Plan on 3–4 days: 1 day in town, 1 day in the West MacDonnells, and half a day to a full day on the eastern route.

Notes: many gorges and waterholes are sacred Aboriginal sites, so obey signs prohibiting swimming or climbing. If driving, carry plenty of water and fuel, and avoid driving in the countryside at night because of kangaroos. Some parts of town are not especially safe at night, so avoid walking alone after dark. When buying Aboriginal art, look for proof of provenance.

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