Accra

West Africa's vibrant capital – Independence Square, the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park, the Jamestown lighthouse and a booming diaspora 'return' culture.

Accra, the capital of Ghana, sits on the northern shore of the Gulf of Guinea. Greater Accra has more than 5 million people and is one of West Africa's safest and most accessible big cities for first-time visitors. The city stretches east–west along the coast: in the west, Jamestown and Old Accra (Ussher Town) are where Europeans built forts and began trading in the 17th century, and fishing boats, a lighthouse, colonial forts and street murals are concentrated here; in the centre, Independence Square, the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park, the National Theatre, the Arts Centre and Makola Market form the civic core; to the east, Oxford Street in Osu is the hub for dining and nightlife, with Labadi Beach further east. The northern suburbs are home to the Legon Botanic Gardens and the National Mosque; about 35 km north on the Akuapem Ridge are the Aburi Botanical Gardens and cocoa farms, and about 50 km northeast is the Shai Hills Resource Reserve, where you can see baboons and antelopes. The climate is tropical savanna, at 28–32°C year-round; Nov–Mar is the dry season, often hazy with Harmattan dust, while Apr–Jun and Sep–Oct are the rainy seasons. In December, the 'Year of Return' and 'Detty December' bring a packed calendar of shows and tight flights and hotels, and August hosts the Chale Wote Street Art Festival in Jamestown. Getting around: Kotoka International Airport (ACC) is about 10 km from the city centre; in town, use Uber or Bolt, and expect heavy traffic during weekday rush hours. Chinese citizens need to obtain a visa for Ghana in advance, and a yellow fever vaccination certificate is required for entry. Plan on 3–4 days: one day for the old town and Jamestown, one for the civic core and markets, one for an excursion to Aburi or Shai Hills, plus half a day at the beach. To visit Cape Coast and Elmina slave castles, you'll usually spend a night in Cape Coast. Note: watch your belongings in crowded markets and stations, ask before photographing people, and don't take photos near government buildings.

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